Can you post a few pics please? Not quite sure what your painting and what you're not.

Do you have a closet you can use to experiment? Sand one wall without painting and paint the other without sanding. See what look you prefer and if it's worth the extra effort. If there's a big difference in colors, especially going from dark to light, you may want to prime first.

yeah Great stuff is a moisture barrier just don't get crazy with it. And if you are worried about critters stuff some brillo into the hole so the foam adheres to it. Critters hate the stuff because it cuts their mouth up but the will chew through foam alone.

Drywall is installed 1/2" off the floor, but it should be fastened tight against the bottom plate. There should never be unsealed openings into the wall space. Concrete and walls will be different temps, but the foam is a thermal insulator, so excessive condensation shouldn't be a factor.

The type of gas is somewhat important for your question

No uncoupling membrane under that tile?? Yikes

Edit: you said Ditra isn’t recommended for small tile but there’s other options. Green skin, other isolation membranes, add subfloor with DMX and tng osb before tile and tapcon to the floor, etc

Here's a page that might help. YouTube video embedded in article as well.

https://missvickie.com/how-to-light-pilot-on-magic-chef-rv-oven/

What do you mean? African or European

Mate I only glanced but that looks like a headache and a half

Rotten threshold is a great band name

You need to honor your expansion joints. https://www.ceramictilefoundation.org/blog/honoring-expansion-joints-in-concrete-floor

Nice work! But you know we have to ask about the PVC now... /s

Thank you!!

I'd avoid doing so. The concrete will always be colder than the wall, and you're just inviting condensation.

Every contractor I have worked for always leaves half inch gap from the floor, no matter where it is in the house.

You really need to use a waterproofing system before the tiles.

Most pilot lights have a thermocouple which is basically a heat sensor that shuts off the gas to the pilot unless it senses that the pilot is lit. So usually a pilot light won't leak gas if the pilot is not lit.

Our builder left a gap like that so that if there's ever some moisture intrusion into the basement - leaking plumbing, water coming in through the wall or slab, etc - it doesn't immediately wick up into the sheetrock.

Maybe just put some trim over it?

I used foam to seal a gap between the foundation and the sill plate. Took about 20 cans for roughly 170 lineal feet. Massive change in draftiness.

I decided to use individual csns because they allowed me to work for 10 or 20 minutes at a time and then stop and not have to clean up anything. I looked at the cost of buying cylinders and it wasn't much different given that I might lose some and I'd have to spend more time cleaning up the equipment.

Elmer's is not waterproof.

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Yep it looks OK, if i may only add you can use some extra security on a sides of the bookshelf, you know like L self brackets.
When i make stuff like that i tend to overkill it a bit with security just in case. BTW it looks nice and since you are on a good track with some inputs saw from other people you'll be just fine.

A pilot should be on so you're not leaking gas into the house. It's not a severe hazard, unless it accumulates somewhere (as it might in an oven), but gas stinks (due to an added odorant).

Have you considered just replacing the faucet washer to fix the leak?

The paint dried for about 24 hours and no seal on it

The paint is specifically for concrete! I wouldn’t think so about the moisture it’s indoors