Yes that is what I thought because the lights I wanted to remove were a complete removal. All the wiring etc. And disconnecting things from the electrical panel. That is very different than just swapping two light switches. In any case i will try one more thing in the morning and if it fails will just call back the electricians.

Thank you. I will look at this tomorrow and if I can’t fix will just call back the electrician. I’ve capped everything and put a plate on it for tonight

A wire nut inside the box got loose which likely was common amongst the other rooms.

Don’t trust products that say “paint and primer in one”

A good bonding primer should have been your second to last step.

What do you mean, sideways? Do you mean downwards? Or into the wall, opposite of outwards? Why would they be rated for sideways force? How and when would sideways force be applied? Literally cannot figure out what it means in the context.

The dimmer switch is a lot larger than a regular single pole switch. Its possible when you pushed the dimmer into the box you knocked the neutral wires or a hot wire junction loose. Pull the switch and inspect the other wires in the box. There maybe multiple wires coming together in that box. Hot feed in, hot feed out to other switches and the wire to the light. All of the neutrals(white) will be together in a wire nut. The hot in and out will either connect to one screw or wire on the switch or will be together in another wire nut with a spare wire to switch leaving the power to the light on the other screw or wire to dimmer. Grounds are together also. Remove the switch and check the connections

It gets way more complicated if they were 3 way switches (two switches controlling one light)

If you are doing this to keep drafts out, I think you should do just that. No reason it shouldnt work. I would use the Great Stuff for windows and doors... minimal expansion... Then mask off any areas nearby that you dont want the finish ruined, and don't touch the overflow until it has dried completely. Then just clean it up with a sharp knife. If your primary motivation is keeping critters out, it may or may not work. A few insects and rodents, if determined can dig or chew through it. And If you are hoping to keep moisture out, you would be better off with a good, quality silicone sealer, but you wont be able to paint it.

You should apply a rubber mat with some outdoor adhesive. would make it less worrisome for when it rains.

*tips hat*

And good day to you sir.

Thanks for the reply!

"Poly" as in polyurethane? I'm planning to spray it all with a polyurethane clear coat after painting. You're saying to use that as a primer as well?

wall fart ?

So you thought it was risky to remove lights but not risky to try remove/replace dimmers and switches….. at the end of the day, I looked at your photo but your countries colours are different than mine so I can help there sorry.

The only times I've ended up with the crinkles is if I added a coat more than 2 hours after first coat. This happened because first coats were skinned over but wet under.

That may or may not be your problem, but you might try sanding it back down -- and seal it with poly first -- let dry for 2 days -- then paint lightly as if you're painting sheet metal. This needs much less paint than going straight to wood. This has worked nicely for me lately

>Don't ask me about the PVC it was the previous owner

Apparently it is the remains of the previous owner.

Ok thanks I will try that!

Primer first?

Stuff like redguard is rated as a crack isolation layer.

You could also use a purpose made crack isolation layer like crack buster that’s rated for mosaic tiles.

https://www.custombuildingproducts.com/TDS/TDS-103.pdf

I think you’re right that it’s a crack.

I’ve never seen such a perfect crack in a foundation before.

I asked a question about removing lights and when someone went through the steps of how to do so, we decided that was risky and hired an electrician. Asking a question out of curiosity doesn’t mean I went ahead and did it. It was to see if it was possible. But maybe you didn’t read the actual post.

Try loosening the screws on that switch and see if it works.

I have an outlet that takes out the whole GFCI circuit if the screw is in just a little too tight. Weird

Did you use a router to shape the threshold?

You previous post history about removing lights tells me otherwise.

I would make it the expansion joint in my tile.

Expanse of tile greater than 15-20 feet should have an expansion joint anyway.

For a White Porcelain toilet, iron-out works best for me. Follow the directions for clearing rust from the tank and bowl. One area where I've had stains is the side of bowl where the tank water comes out of the rim. To get those out without having to scrub, I fold up 1 or 2 TP sheets, dampen them, put iron-out on to the sheets paste and them over those streaks. Let it sit for 30-45 minutes, then flush. It's cleared them up for me. I've used pumice too and it's worked but I've had to scrub to get those off.

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