I don't think anyone has mentioned the PVC yet.

What's the deal with the PVC?

I saw that and wondered why it was even there.

I’m most impressed with how well formatted this thread is!

Super, tak. Lader lige epoxyen sidde indtil i morgen, men umiddelbart ser det fast ud. Hylden jeg har, har jeg fået lavet af en snedker, så der er styr på beslagene, det var bare lige væggen, der drillede.

English: just saying I will leave the epoxy till tomorrow but it looks solid so far

I’d recommend darning. Get a white thread and zig zag across the hole using really small stitches with low tension, and that should be nearly invisible. See link for a really cruddy diagram! cruddy diagram

The difference between this and just sewing it up is that the stitches lay flat, rather than having a raised bump like you would with a whip stitch, and the edges are covered to prevent fraying. By weaving over and under, including at both ends, the tension from the stitches is distributed over a larger space, so it doesn’t just tear where you put the stitches in later.

The 3 1/2" screws were set at an angle to anchor into the vertical frame members? I don't see any other wood to anchor into.

It sounds like you are trying to upgrade an old 2-wire thermostat to a digital one. Unfortunately, it is not always straightforward to determine which connections to use when wiring a new thermostat. It is important to double check that the wiring is correct before connecting the new thermostat. It is highly recommended that you consult a qualified HVAC technician to ensure that the wiring is done correctly. Additionally, they will be able to advise you on the best type of thermostat to use for your gas furnace.

Nice new threshold.
That pvc is an abomination though, waste from a downstairs toilet?

Nicely explained. I just get apoplectic with rage watching new AV technicians trying to justify mounting an articulated bracket with drywall plugs

"but each is rated to 75lbs I'm using 4 and this all weighs less than 100lbs! I've done it before bro chill out"

I won't chill, you're going to fucking kill a child, do not show up tomorrow if this isn't fixed in the next 30 minutes.

Im not a painter, so if there is one who can correct me if I'm wrong, I'd appreciate it.

I like to do a good scuff sand on semi glossy and glossy walls before painting. Cleaning the walls obviously as well. If not, the paint seems fairly easy to peel off afterward.

hmm maybe I didn't answer the question. I prefer the smoothness of the patches that were sanded for holes but I am more concerned about having a really grainy or lumpy finish due to really small imperfections

Aspirationally I would like it to look like the advertisement material online (wouldn't we all. Here; https://www.duluxheritage.co.uk/en/colours/1780077/florentine-red) I know the image has been through digital processing and therefore perhaps unrealistic. If I can achieve something similar without sanding and just cleaning then I won't bother. Also I do have an orbital sander and 120 grit discs so I don't think it'll be too long to do but lots of dust and cleaning afterward

Cleaning it is more important than sanding it in my opinion. Sanding is just a preference, how smooth do you want your wall to be?

To achieve a nice smooth finish, it's essential to sand to help prepare the area for painting application, by sanding you are removing imperfections (also known as pimples), creating a nice smooth finish while at the same time adding adhesion by developing small, rough ridges for the paint to stick to.

I'm no expert, but why would rebar bend? Isnt that the stuff that they put in concrete when they make buildings?

Painter for 15 years. Just paint it.

I'd build a step over that pipe, if it has to stay! Very nice woodworking.

I'm willing to bet rebar would bend. A piece of steel black pipe a couple feet long would probably do it. No idea what the cost of that is tho. A piece of angle iron would do it too.

I like the idea of the French cleat. However the challenge is now added thickness of the cleat itself. 3/4” may be too thick based on how deep the cabinets sit. 1/2” would be better. Thin, yes, but if I ripped an 8” strip, cut it at 45 degrees down the middle, secured it with 8 screws to the shelf, do you think the weight distribution would be sufficient? Again, I’m not trying to float the bookcase, just trying to alleviate the weight on the sideboard. Thoughts?

I like Lowes over HD tbh, they have offered military discounts when HD and others did not. But if I’m not mistaken? Only Anderson has frame NOT assembled. In fact you can bring home a complete Anderson slider in your SUV, Minivan or station wagon. No truck needed lol. But if Pella has upped their game? that frame is un-assembled, other panels boxed, ? Then this would make for direct competition to Andersons long time un-opposed market. I work alone most of the time, so it is of direct need that I am very familiar with Andersons product over the past 20-30 yrs. But even at my age, I would and do install Andersons slider doors or french doors. But many others I can not do alone. I’ve installed many of Pella’s vinyl sliders too over the years. My experience with them has been mostly vinyl extruded & welded frames. Not as robust a product as andersons for sure, and for about same money. Js

Find a contractor supply company or Ready Mix concrete producer they have a lot of products for cleaning concrete.

If it's oil type of stains Mineral Spirits works well if it's other type of grim get a professional product and follow the directions to a T.

PVC is so soft, it would scratch and wear immediately.

Epoxy virker (limanker).. Jeg har selv gjort det med Egehylder med skjulte stagbolte. Du skal bare sikre dig at de er dybt nok i. (80-100mm)

Tip: Jeg borede hul til stagbolten fra bagsiden af hylden og fræste en rille op fra undersiden af hylden til at montere møtrikken så montagen er helt skjult

Lol, I was gonna ask why not make the stoop out of pvc trim so it doesn't rot again and I was like.... is that a bad question. Then I saw you were talking about the pipe.

Sew it with a curved needle and matching thread. First knot can be hidden by going in the hole and up by the edge, final knot you bury by going in the end of the hole, come up about a half inch away (any direction) and cut the thread flush with the fabric, end of the thread will just disappear.

Glue will feel crusty and be much more obvious