IMHO, i think you're on track. That being said....

Personally, when i have heavy cabinets to mount (garage), i like using a wide French cleat to support the weight. Not sure if it makes a huge difference, but i think about the cleat being mounted across the cabinet, as well as two lags per stud across the whole width, as means of distributing the weight. Is it necessary? Dunno, but i like to over build a bit, not knowing how well each lag is biting into a stud and not knowing exactly how the structure will be used long term.

Yeah. That PVC looks like a heck of a trip hazard?!?

Sort of. The tannins in oak will react with iron which is why stainless is recommended. You'll get unsightly black marks on the steel and the oak surrounding it.

what about the pvc /s

Sewing?

This isn't true. The metal clad wood pella sliding doors have an easily removed/replaced sliding section so you remove it for transport and initial install and and then puck it back to check everything before putting the final fasteners into place. You definitely need delivery or access to a truck, but that's true for all of them.

You can buy Pella doors direct (with or without install) or from Lowes (in the US). The Lowe's pricing is much better than list price, and I found the pella dealer will match it, there are some features / combinations that Lowe's can't order for some reason.

I am not advocating for Pella over Anderson; just there are more choices out there.

A muriatic acid based cleaner is what you’re looking for I believe. Make sure you read about safe use because, obviously, it’s an acid and a pretty strong one at that.

Should be available at your local hardware store as well.

Good luck!

Stainless steel is stainless steel, galvanized steel is steel with a zinc coating. Stainless is much more expensive but also more resistant to corrosion than galvanized, which costs almost the same as normal steel.

Nope, just throw the house out and get a new one

Glazier here. If you are in the us of a. Check out CR Lawrence If in Canada. All glass parts.com or CR Lawrence

Thanks for the tip, that looks interesting. I will have to find out what they're called in Danish as I have never seen those before

Laden, or unladen?

The cost will be similar to getting the the whole unit replaced.

Just trying to halp.

If you own the home? Your best option is replace it. Anderson is your best and only option if you hope to do the job by yourself. All other sliders i have ever installed ( hundreds ) come pre-assembled and will take 2 or more people to install and a decent sized truck to transport it. Where as an Anderson slider comes in boxes (3-4) , and is easily installed by 1 person. I like their vinyl clad wood slider myself. We have 2 of them in our home. They also stand behind their lifetime warranty too. No they are not the cheapest, but they are one of the better sliding doors out there. One issue you will have to address is size, Anderson sliders are 5’10” width not 6’ like many others. I have always filled out framing to accommodate the difference, not difficult and insulate the gap is added bonus. Height is standard 80”. Anderson also guaranties parts support for 10 years from production end or at least they used to. Good luck.

For oak I was always told to go for stainless rather than galvanised (idk if it's a US/UK nomenclature thing) as the oak will corrode anything other than stainless, particularly if there's likely to be any water involved. I have also confirmed this through slightly painful experience!

Use the correct anchors and you have no need of all that fafe

i have cabinets hanging on single French cleat battens 30mmx50mm, that hold upwards of 50kg using 3~5 3x3” screws in saw steel anchors

While using epoxy is certainly one way of putting in anchors to aerated concrete it certainly isn’t the only or IMHO the best way.

the best way is to use “saw steel anchors” they are specifically designed for AAC blocks and I have used several hundred of them. My walls are all AAC (aerated concrete)

an mage is at https://sc01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1QHWYvTlYBeNjSszcq6zwhFXaM/200138850/HTB1QHWYvTlYBeNjSszcq6zwhFXaM.jpg

Check out YouTube videos on how to remove sliding glass door rollers.

pull out game is strong

I tried that already. Couldn't get the old ones off due to bad rust. Ended up pulling the frame to the door panel off the rubber seal.

I believe what you're looking for is "chemical anchor". It's a type of epoxy that's made for putting steel rods into concrete, forever.

Depending on your brackets and how much space there is inside the shelves, best would be to use chemical anchor to stick threaded rod into the holes, wait for it to cure, and then screw on the shelf brackets with nuts onto the threaded rod.

Edit: Forgot to add - the longer you can make your anchor the better. 6 inches if you can :)

I bought some rollers and a handle from HD but couldn't get my old rollers off due to the rust. I'll check the nextdoor app.

They sell replacement wheel kits. I think most of them are the same design.

We had a solid cedar fireplace mantle installed and it was interesting how they did it. They drilled holes into the brick with a masonry drill, then had rods that looked like rebar, and set them into the holes with epoxy gel. They propped them up so they'd be somewhat level. Once they set, they drilled holes into the back side of the mantle, coated the protruding pegs with glue, and set it in place.

This is a gotta-get-it-right-the-first-time kind of thing but might work for your situation.