If the door is still sold, you can buy the unit and just replace the slider. Wasteful, but easy. Have you checked to see if the manufacturer just sells the doors without the frame? If the doors are older and were common in your area, you might be able to ask neighbors if anyone replaced one and still has the old one that's functional.

My doors are 42 years old, and when the rollers failed, I asked around on Nextdoor since these same doors were used in every house around here, but never heard from anyone. I finally managed to locate new replacement rollers after a long search.

I have a friend who works in construction, I'll see if he has a spare piece of rebar available.

The bike had been taken apart to ensure access to the bend, for repair.

The bike is an Exerpeutic 400 XL or something like that.

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To calculate the shear strength of anything, look up the shear strength of the material: about 30 kpsi for carbon steel. Then multiply by the cross sectional area: M5=> ~4.1mm od = 0.161in od => 0.0205 in^2. So shear strength is 30,000 psi x 0.0205 in^2 = 610 lbs. Then divide by 4 for a safety factor. So place no more than 153 lbs per screw in shear.

Spax screws usually have a chart on the box with shear strength values.

this.. also known as weed barrier cloth. you can get it at the big box stores.

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Hilti HY-200A adhesive with threaded rod. You can get threaded rod to match whatever anchor the shelves came with. For aerated concrete you should get the mesh sleeve as well. If its outdoor get the hot dip galvanized threaded rod.

You could do a sewing technique called darning. There are pretty cool videos on different ways to do it.

Unfortunately I don’t use it too regularly. Mainly in nights I find myself not needing to wake up at 0300 the next morning, which isn’t often. So it tends to get wild there during the mid to late summers

Thank you. This helps a lot

I agree with just using your pit regularly, the heat will keep anything from growing there. If you are worried about setting a root on fire just do like you said and dig down a bit and put in a layer of rock as a barrier.

the shear audacity for u to point that out

Trash. If you are going to spend the effort on buying replacement steel and taking to a weld shop, you might as well buy a decent bike and scrap the inheritance

If that isn't enough, you can try adding more brackets as well. If they are really heavy, you might just have to build proper supports that go to the ground.

Geotextile cloth or landscape fabric works but so does just using the firepit regularly.

You need more contact area between the anchors and wall material. So get longer anchors (longer equals more pull out resistance). Anchor can be anything really, a length of threaded rod works well if it’s thick enough and you use enough to support the load.

Also drill the hole a good bit bigger than the anchor bolt and use either regular concrete or good epoxy to set the anchor. You want the anchor to only be contacting the adhesive and the adhesive to unify with the spongy wall material. Another benefit of the larger hole is the ability to exactly level the anchor rods as the adhesive is setting.

Try searching for "shear" not "sheer".

Landscape fabric is what you want to use. It will block growth but let water through.

Bent frame shouldn't hinder it from collecting all the dust it otherwise would if it were in mint condition.

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FYI, the 16 kg rating is for shear (the anchor pushing sideways on the wall) loads. Mounting a shelf puts a lot of tension (pulling out of the wall) on the anchors, which almost none of them are rated for.

I would definitely look into pulling a new wire, and I’d run at least a 5 wire, if not 7, to allow for future upgrades.

Wire resistance what? You understand that wire resistance is going to change based on not only gauge but length, right? Thermostats work the same whether they’re 2’ from the furnace or 200’ from the furnace, both with drastically different wire resistance.