If it is an attached garage which I imagine it is, you can't have a duct through the fire wall that is open to the garage. Also you could be negative drafting the water heater and furnace which is really bad news.

Addictive as hell. Seriously!

It's a load bearing exterior wall so I'm not sure, beyond my comfort level really. I guess my question is, would only using two 45s still allow me to offset a few inches to the left and then out? That's the part confusing me, the duct cutout in the hood is directly in middle of it ( on top), so I need to start there with duct, go left a few inches, and then connect to the exterior wall vent duct which will be likely at top (inside) of cabinet

I would use 2 adjustable 90s to make a short angle and a offset you would be less restricted than 2 straight 45s.

From different research I'm not sure the CFM advertised is true CFM so they say to overshoot what you need.. but you're right I don't need 900cfm but it's 4 speed so I'll likely run it much lower.

You might for the first tenant. Then a few years later you'll realize that life is too short to worship drywall in your income property, and you'd rather have it "done well enough" than spend 3 hours of your weekend "doing it right" cause no one will care about it either.

The thermostat determines the temperature swing not the wiring. Most residential stats don't have deadzone adjustment. All a stat does is connect white to red to complete the circuit which starts the heating cycle when it drops below the deadzone temp, and shuts it off after the satisfied (set) temp.

In no way would you want a 1 degree swing, generally you want only 4 to 5 cycles per hour on heating. Short cycling doesn't warm up the heat exchanger and more of your money goes out the vent. My commercial honeywell doesn't allow deadzone adjustment but allows cycle limiting and learns what it needs based on the run times and temps.

Good news, these are facts unlike your unfounded nonsense.

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Sawdust and superglue

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I mean, I've got tons of it, but most people aren't diy people, especially ones that live in apartments and come on here asking about filling holes.

I agree that holes larger than nail/pin size are appropriate to fill and said as much in my previous comment. I wouldn't make holes that size in an apartment wall though, and so wouldn't have much use for filler if I lived in one. And, if a landlord is asking for pin holes to be patched, toothpaste is as good as anything, considering that it's a completely unnecessary task in the first place.

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There are a kind of nail hole filler that are like colored wax pencils. You rub them over the hole that fills with the wood/laminate color and wipe with a cloth. If you can match the color they are easy and long lasting.

Sounds good, pea gravel will work.

I don’t think I would bother digging down to put a base of larger rocks. Seems like a lot of work 😂

At our old place it was just weed barrier and then pea gravel on top and we had no issues.

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It's extremely cheap, and the good stuff sets in any where from an hour to 5 minutes.

It's also extremely difficult for a novice to make a wall perfect, especially if the wall was not flat white.

Could you remove the stud and go straight an build a square box to replace said stud?

You want to go straight show as possible. Otherwise yeah a lot of noise (turbulence) so 45 then 45 again

Not bad points.

This is why if I ever rent a property out I'm gonna make it clear my nail hole policy is: leave them to me to resolve and I won't make a fuss or threaten your security deposit as long as the holes are done reasonably for hanging normal objects.

I doubt I'm likely to possess a rental property ever though, so unlikely.

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