Recent comments in /f/DIY

RabbitWhisperer4Fun t1_j9vjzm5 wrote

Reply to Gable Vent in Unfinished Garage? by AggravatingTart7167

Something I did was to put a 30”x30” powerful belt driven gable vent with a nice decorative front screened grill (bugs) up and inside the garage (and attic..I did 3 total) I attached a hygrometer AND thermometer (all one unit) and a snap covered on off switch for when belts need changing and I don’t want to lose fingers. The hygrometer is set for 37 percent humidity (in Mass you would be safe going with 50% to keep it from running all the time) and the temp was set to 140/80F. In the summer the peak of the garage hits 140F by 7am and either the humidity setting or the temp sets it off. If you are actually trying to use this to cool the garage you can set it for lower temps but you are going to use a LOT of electricity since the heat will constantly be high up near the fan. I would recommend putting window or wall mount fans at work level and have switch to flip them on when you are going to be in there. They are cheap at $120 each for professional units and will NEVER wear out (until your home burns down and they melt…or maybe that’s just me…and the fire was caused by something installed long before I bought the house). So that’s a thing I did to resolve both moisture and heat issues. The two in the attic of the house, Mid point and North end, were quiet and smooth operating and I never had a repeat of mildew and never overheated or overworked the air conditioning in the Summer. In 2006 this was $480 done professionally but that’s pretty meaningless now. What you are talking about with my recommendations will run about 550 DIY$ these days for the single fan and a couple window fans at level.

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RabbitWhisperer4Fun t1_j9vi189 wrote

Reply to Old 2-wire thermostat wiring by fluxeii

There’s one option I haven’t seen below and I realize you already bought the thermostat… BUT! There are some really nice wireless thermostats that don’t require pulling a new wire. What you have REQUIRES pulling a new wire. Thermostats have fairly sensitive electronics and are matched to a graded and measured wire with precisely known resistance. This means that when you turn your thermostat to 70F it will warm the house to 71f…allow up to 3+/- temp. And turn start the furnace at 67F again. If you use the old (most likely solid core 18g copper) wire you will end up a few degrees in either direction or shortening the life of the new thermostat. This isn’t in the instructions and I’m not sure why…maybe Honeywell likes selling new thermostats every few years to the same person? The wiring advice below is good. Do that if you stick with a wired thermostat but the wireless option for about $180 is going to be trouble free and only need a recharge on the 9V lithium battery about every 3 years. Well…THAT is my opinion and like bellybuttons…everyone has one.

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llort_tsoper t1_j9vfekm wrote

Reply to comment by Ozark-Ike in Best way to repair dart holes in laminate flooring? by [deleted]

I'd get the pink Dap wood filler, a $1 plastic putty knife, and a sharpie.

You could get as complex as you want with trying to match the exact wood tone on the repair, but OP could probably just buy one sharpie that's close to the tone of the floor and it will look good enough to get her security deposit back.

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Tack122 t1_j9vf24r wrote

Reply to comment by dinoaids in Best way to repair dart holes in laminate flooring? by [deleted]

If all you're doing is filling the holes with a white colored gunk, why not use joint compound, which is the right stuff for the job?

If you're careful you can fill a hole without the sand/prime/paint steps just like toothpaste but you aren't leaving a silly mess for someone who comes later and wants it done right.

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