Recent comments in /f/DIY

fixit614 t1_j9v357z wrote

Phil Swift here for Flex Seal! …But seriously, just replace it. $100-$200 is much better than tens of thousands in water damage

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MrRonObvious t1_j9v2qfv wrote

"help support" is not nearly the same as "firmly bond to" and if you have ever compared the strength of the two, it's easy to crack off the excess Great Stuff foam, but I've never been able to crack epoxy without using massive quantities of leverage. Plus this will be outside, and UV radiation from sunlight massively degrades polyurethane foam, so that's another reason I would vote against it.

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tatpig t1_j9v1m2s wrote

pro tip…drill a 2” hole in a piece of plywood ,center it up and blue tape it down. stand on it to hold it in place as you drill. hold the drill up an 1/8 or so and let it get up to speed,then ease it down gently. alternatively, make up some bar extensions to slide over your existing bar.

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SinkPhaze t1_j9v0t48 wrote

Toothpaste shrinks when it drys out. When you use it your just passing the buck. I can understand why a renter would do it. I think it's kinda shitty behavior because your just putting your damage on the next renter, but I understand it. But a realtor or any other professional? Scummy af

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fugsco t1_j9v06lz wrote

Is it possible for you to pull new wire? A few nicer aspects of having a modern thermostat (assuming a somewhat modern heat unit) will not be available with only two wires, even if you can get it to work. My wire run was pretty easy so this is what I did. I love to run the fan alone, but that was not possible until I replaced the old wires.

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RunawayRogue t1_j9uzi6a wrote

You can buy wax floor repair kits on Amazon. My favorite are the ones that come with multiple colors and a heating iron. It looks similar to a soldering iron. Just melt a bit of wax with the tool and put it in the hole, then smooth it with a plastic tool that comes in the kit. Quick and easy

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cdog77777blue OP t1_j9uyutf wrote

Yes it is mainly a doggy business spot and I just wanted something better than dirt. There are no bushes or anything other than trees that drop pine straw which i can hopefully brush away… thats one of my small issues that I dont really know how to deal with. Unless you think getting bigger rocks could be better and if so what kinds of rocks?

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kittenrice t1_j9uybbi wrote

If you look in the furnace, you should find that the wires go to R and W, which is where they should be hooked up to in the new thermostat.

Pro tip: if you hook the wires up before attaching the stat to the wall, you'll have an easier time and do a neater job.

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RabbitWhisperer4Fun t1_j9ux4jq wrote

Hmmm. Oops! There’s a couple things to do for the future. Put a piece of 1/4” plywood in the closet to lay down on the floor in the future. To repair the holes you need to use some fine sand paper to reduce the tiny raised ridges around the holes. The tip of the dart will open the wood and force some of the laminate out and up creating a tiny ridge. That has to go. This will leave scuffing from LIGHT sanding using your fingertip and a small bit of paper and these will have to be rematched to the rest of the floor after you fill the holes. Mohawk Floor Products (check online) sells a hard wax in different colors meant to repair dents in furniture. That’s fine if this is an edge where no one walks but if people actually walk over this area you will need the kneaded mixed epoxy clay that they offer in over 120 colors as of last count for about $12.00 and some postage. Call the customer service and ask for a recommendation of color, take a picture with a good phone or tablet camera and let them help you match the color…otherwise it looks…”unprofessional”…or like your floor came down with Chicken Spots! Once you get this, mix thoroughly and use your finger (wear a nitril glove!) to push the epoxy mud deeply into each hole. Wait for it to dry to see if you need to stain the area to match the color of the floor. If so, get back with Mohawk and get the proper stain/finish and you can do it all at once. I normally use a spray on oil based coloration (a plastic squeeze spray bottle) and mix and match tints until it is right but you should just get one color and do your best (you can end up easily with $1200 in product if you don’t just accept close enough). Once dyed properly then use a laminate floor sealer from a big box store (or a hardwood flooring shop…which will be better) and seal the putty, tinting and roughened spot to match the surrounding area. Most laminate floors are shiny but actually the finish is Matte. At most it is semigloss. Do NOT use gloss or high gloss finish or it will stand out. Flooring has to match REALLY well or you will be explaining to guests what happened for the next 30 years…nobody wants that. I don’t know what this costs now but 25 years ago I would have charged a client or insurance company about $400 to do a 25sq’ area and it would taken a couple hours each day for three days to get it all right. Nowadays at about $300 per hour…do it yourself! You NEED to do this right or you are going to lose your deposit and pay the extra cost out of pocket when the owner sues you. CALL MOWHAWK…GET IT RIGHT!

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