You’re right, depending on the diameter of the rebar hole it probably wouldn’t get too hot. Epoxy would work, it just may not be the best.

Also yes epoxy will adhere better to the metal than many other adhesives. However this is a potted application where cohesion and bulk material properties will dominate the strength. The ribbing on rebar will have to crack through the adhesive before any adhesive strength is tested.

Consider the higher density great stuff (polyurethane foam) for protecting the rebar and filling gaps. It’s designed to help support windows and doors and would probably be much easier to use here

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I forget the exact math, but all it will take is every single human being killing like 20,000 mosquitoes a year, for like 10 years. And then they will instinctively avoid humans because we will have established ourselves as predators in their genetic memories.

You could, but kinda an unnecessary step since you have to put down adhesive of mastic or thin set. These look even enough that the trowel will level the adhesive for a good bond. Depending on size. Big ass tiles are a pain in the ass.

Piece of plywood on the floor under the dartboard.

How are the walls, by the way?

Colour tint a soft epoxy like G2?

I did riven slate in the kitchen because I love it to death, but vinyl is the very best stuff for bathrooms and it's so easy to replace.

I'm doing the same thing. I'm small so besides lifting the toilet itself its an easy job

My realtor friend used to say white Colgate for the walls

This, white crayons also work well to fix nail/pinholes in drywall.

We got one of these last summer and, at least in our SE lower Michigan location, on our covered porch, I found it to work pretty effectively. We also have an oscillating ceiling fan.

Call a refinishing company and have a coating applied over it. Permanent solution.

Just call someone who has experience applying it over tile. Miracle Method is a national franchise.

Epoxy does get hot when curing, but I doubt it's hot enough to start a fire. The rebar would act as a heatsink regardless.

I still think epoxy is a better choice, because it needs to bond to both metal and wood, and I don't think Titebond grabs well onto metal.

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There is no real way without epoxys hardeners and dyes to color Match it. Your boyfriend is an idiot and should be paying for the deposit you are definitely going to lose.

If that floor laminate Is no longer in production they can come after you for the cost of a full replacement.

Am I not seeing a pic ? Because a few dart holes and a thousand dart holes are two different problems. Also depends on the color/pattern of the floor.

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Find a piece of wood that's a good colour match for the laminate, saw a couple of chunks off over a container. Mix the sawdust with wood glue.

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This looks fine clean it up a little then use a grey grout and just apply over the whole surface and sponge like you would any other grout job. Seal the grout when your done

You can seal the holes with a dab of nail Polish. Squish the hole closed and use clear polish

Don't do this. Laminate floors are "floating floors" . They are not attached to the sub floor for thermal expansion/contraction. Cutting the tongues and grooves off will keep it from locking into the pieces around it. Gluing the replacement piece down will keep it from moving with the rest of the floor. It will gap or buckle eventually.

People are always suggesting ramen noodles, so maybe there's something to it?

That, or wood putty, or perhaps even some properly colored sculpy (modeling polymer clay). Technically, it needs to harden in an oven, but in my experience small amounts will eventually dry out without shrinking.