What product is for sealing?

Correct me if I’m wrong but do you think the lines between the tiles are cement and not grout? That would be highly unlikely and doesn’t appear to be the case from the two photos. The way that tile is installed is usually a two step process. Step one is to adhere the tiles to the surface using thinset or mortar. This leaves all the edges of the tiles exposed as the bottom is the only part stuck down. In step two, all the gaps between the tiles are filled with a colored cement - sometimes with sand, sometimes with polymers, glitter, or other chemicals. This is what dries and what you are wanting to clean. It looks like concrete because it is concrete on a finer scale.

There are many tools on the market to remove grout, just be careful if you go that route not to chip the tile. Regrouting will give you the best results. Otherwise, I make a paste of baking soda and hydrogen peroxide and scrub with a grout brush after letting it sit for 10 minutes. That seems to work for me pretty well.

Having the floor retiled or retiling it yourself are also not very expensive options, and it’s a project that is very satisfying to complete and makes a big change.

Good luck!

To be honest, you'd get a cleaner and quicker result by tiling over with bigger tile. Small tiles are going out of style anyways...

That's what I would do. Roughen up the remaining tile, apply the correct tile on tile adhesive (very important!), retile and grout, done. 5 hour job max, from the look of your bathroom it's kind of small.

I'd not do that if it was a bigger bathroom / area (stress fractures more likely).

not quite what I need for building custom-sized boxes.

you know what, I've heard about Aluminum as an option before. If the cost of aluminum for the project doesn't break my bank account, I'll highly consider it. I've had some guys in the film industry tell me about it...... actually they raved about it lol.

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This is a great idea. After doing some research, I'm highly considering this. The only thing I have to worry about at this point is cost of building materials. Apparently, a basic riveting tool is a footnote of a cost, which I'm happy to discover.

Hmmmmm. This is a more than acceptable idea. Thank you! Will consider!

probably not strong enough for the heavy equipment I'm using this box for. Sorry I didn't mention that in my original post. BUT, I will consider for future projects. Thanks!

If the fumes are flammable, look into explosion-proof fans, and don't vent it into the garage.

will very seriously consider! if it's just as strong as wood, the only limitation I'll face is cost.

will very seriously consider! if it's just as strong as wood, the only limitation I'll face is cost.

Depending on the amount of air pushed out you might need some “make up” air. You could end up creating a negative pressure environment in the basement, which is dangerous for any gas appliances.

https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/makeup-air-for-kitchen-exhaust

Okay I need a doctor. You blew my mind. The only question for you is: how much money will I dump out for a 54x16x12 inch box? How many gallons would I need?

I just used the Mapei Grout Refresh product yesterday and it worked great. Much easier than I thought it would be to apply.

Why not just tape up the cardboard to the wall?

I suppose of you really look at it, it looks kind of arched. The top and bottom hinges looks closer to the frame/wall than the middle.

LOL People, I don't actually need a suitcase. Goodwill is not an option, obviously. I'm building a big-ass box LOL. The box will be bigger than a suitcase and will be used to transport heavy, delicate, and expensive musical equipment. That's why I need a lightweight and durable material.

Nothing looks leaned out, wrong, or slightly angled. Or, like it’s not in place. It looks like it’s in place like it’s supposed to be. Doesn’t looks lopsided or anything like that.

I’m not 100% sure.

I'm building a glorified box for my musical instruments and associated equipment. The details sound more confusing in text than they actually are. What you need to know is that it needed to be sturdy and lightweight. Also its dimensions are roughly 56 inches wide, 16 inches deep, and 12 inches tall. My 1.0 design is exactly those dimensions. It fits most of my needs except it's too heavy WITHOUT anything inside. Contents include a computer, power supply, other tech, and at least one 88-key midi keyboard.

American standard sent me a replacement for free. I called to find out where to buy a replacement tank and they said it was covered by their lifetime warranty. Try calling them if you got American standard

Check this out. His vids are informative and in plain language.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=48fFtKTGTEw

So, your fan isn't coming with a reducer like I was thinking. It comes with an adapter to go from a 4" oval to 3" round duct. The area of the both sides is probably very similar but without knowing the width or height of the oval, I can't be certain. This fan is designed to work with this adapter.

Your air blowback could be due to duct blockage or otherwise reduced throughput. Typically, there are maximum duct lengths and number of elbow (bends) allowed before throughput is reduced. Without putting eyes on your ducting, you've really no way to know. I don't know if HVAC companies will scope your duct or not, but I'm fairly certain they can clean them.

Could you explain/expand on your point? I'm interested, BUT I'm also the polar opposite of well-versed in metal-working LOL.

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<3 You know what, if I could make my project out of the plastic milk crate material, my whole LIFE would be set! But I need the walls of the box to be solid and custom dimensions. The size of the custom-built box would be larger than a suitcase.