Wood is too heavy for the purpose of my projectS. The weight of the contents are already heavy And need protection. (Musical Instruments/Keyboards)

It's likely the exterior will take a beating.

if you don't mind 'elbow grease' use dish soap and white vinegar with a stiff bristle brush preferably small bristle and rinse clean

Is your latch side squared up with your hinge side? If the latch side is leaning out just a bit more the hinge side this can happen.

What?! No! Read this to yourself and imagine what you’d say to someone else in this position. Get a new toilet for the love of god.

We used a grout renew product and it worked great. It was like a paint and it sealed.

It's not going to ignite on its own. But if you do have a fire, it's a big panel of combustible material right in front of the window that you might need to use as an emergency exit.

This. I did rebar only through the first timbers on the ground. Then, i staggered the second layer so the rebar was covered and used lag bolts to fasten the two layers. Kids used the area for 10 years and never had an issue.

Bonus: If you want to reconfigure the area you just lift the timbers up off the rebar, reposition, and drive the rebar into the new area and slip the bottom timber with the hole over it.

Thanks, I'll look into it.

yeah, that seems to be the consensus. Thanks for your input!

thanks for your suggestion!

Adding to the cracked tank flood horror stories: Mine was cracked by someone during a party. Ended up with 3“ of water in the house and a $50,000 homeowners claim and 7 weeks in a hotel with 2 young kids at Christmas. Don’t risk it. Replace ASAP. Meantime turn off water to toilet. My insurance company dropped me 3 months later.

Why not just get some black out paper? It's only a few dollars at Walmart/Amazon

The fan output is 4”, I wish I had the opposite problem but it does seem to be a 4” to 3” reducer. Here’s the official Panasonic one;

https://na.panasonic.com/ca/home-building-solutions/ventilation-indoor-air-quality/ventilation-accessories/4-oval-3-round-duct-adapter-whispervaluetm-fan-and-fanlight-combinations

It does have adjustable settings so I’ve set it to 50cfm but has options for 80 and 100. Honestly even on the 50 setting the noise level seems almost the same as the other settings.

When I installed exhaust ducting in my parents attic I used 6" so the full 100 cfm wouldn't be restricted.

4" is good to use in some instances where firewalls are present. They don't need special protection because they're so small.

If you don't have an easy path to outside from that bathroom, you may need to open up a wall and investigate running an oval or rectangle duct in it to get full airflow.

Otherwise yeah, run the fan at 50 cfm so it's not trying too hard for what the ducting can allow. You could lower the lifespan of the motor, or you're just wasting energy.

Not sure why the fan would come with the 3" to 4" adapter unless the fan output 3" and you were attaching to a 4" duct. Or it is a fan with adjustable CFM settings, one of which was low enough for a 3" duct.

The concern is that you will overwork the fan motor and shorten it's life. You also get the problem you described.

Bruh, you're gonna be fine!

Bathroom is located in a corner on the main level of a two level house. It has close access to 2 exterior walls that could potentially be vented through. That would be a good option and I would just not use the existing ducting.

I’m in the Pacific Northwest, in Vancouver.

It’s a Panasonic one with options for 50-80-100 cfm. Bathroom isn’t very big, about 50 sq. Ft.

Nothing you can do with porcelain. I’d replace it or shut the water off and on after every use if you can’t afford a plumber or new toilet. They’re really easy to install if you read the directions that come with it and watch a couple YouTube videos. Just have a five gallon bucket on hand just in case:)

Oh really? I’ll take a look online for some that fit my current ducting. So the adapter I put on it is not meant for this type of application?

Would you know the concern for reducing the size of the duct?

The odd thing is that some of these exhaust fans come with the adapter.

Good idea I’ll go take a look tomorrow, lots of trees around and my gutters are always full of them, thanks!

My fan does claim to move 50-100, it’s a Panasonic one with options for 50-80-100.

If a 4” duct is good for moving up to 35 then should I just set it to 50cfm? Why would it have the option to go all the way to 100? Marketing to make it sound good?

If someone wanted to upgrade the size of the duct in my situation with no attic access, is the only option to open up walls?

I used a ton for my yard including tiered sections 2-3 high.

Rebar into the ground, ~2 per 8’ section, 2-3’ long depending on how many Timbers you’re going through.

I highly recommend headlok to fasten them together where you make a 90 degree turn, and/or throw a few in for tiered sections. They’re not cheap fasteners but are very strong and hold up well, available in multiple lengths.

Use angled steel and drill holes to put in bolts then sheet metal to join.

Thanks for your response, makes me feel better that some back pressure is expected.

I’ve done my bathrooms upstairs which was fairly easy but this time unfortunately it’s the downstairs bathroom. It does vent up through the roof so I unless I open up walls I guess this will have to do.

Yep. Know that problem. The door closes fine when lightly swung shut until the last couple of inches and then itbounces back. The hinges could be mortised too deeply into the frame or into the door, and the hinge edge of the door is compressing into the hinge edge of the frame. Close and latch the door. You should have a uniform gap between the door and the frame on the hinge edge, big enough to slip a credit card (non embossed) into. Or at least an index card, without friction. If not, put a shim under the hinge on the frame or door side or both. I 3d printed custom shims for this, 1.2mm thick. Problem solved. At least that was my problem and solution. Any thin material will do.