It is usually against code to have shared air between a garage and living area in the US. Check code before continuing. You might lose your garage!

In this case just tile over it.

Is the choice between having the fan in the garage vs the basement? Then noise would be a factor. Where will your filter be? Any duct before a filter would be subject to dust buildup. Are the fumes and dust fairly localized in the workshop? Perhaps a hood and duct would work best. I’m no expert, those are just my initial thoughts.

In my experience, you can spend a lot of time and money cleaning the grout around tile you're already not happy with, and still not be happy at the end of the process.

Nothing solves the problem better than an SDS Hammer Drill with chisel attachments followed by a tiling professional.

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XLGC is your friend. It’s non acidic but works like a muriatic acid. It bubbles up on dirty grout like hydrogen peroxide does on dirty wounds. It’s made by XL north and it’s their Grout Cleaner. Don’t use it on natural stone as it will etch it. And don’t splash it on stainless steel for the same reason.

Source: I’m a tile contractor.

Thank you I like this idea

There's no such thing as 'a small leak.' It's a catastrophe waiting to happen.

Go to a boating supply store like West Marine. You can buy one gallon and two gallon buckets of two-part epoxy. It's not cheap.

You can also order it from Amazon, I would think.

You basically have to steam it repeatedly until you have gotten it all out of the pores.

If you want it to be easy to clean, don't use cement grouts. Polymer additives that promise stain proofness are not good enough Cement is quite porous, and so stuff gets in the pores and gets very stuck. Or just plain absorbed (in the case of oils, for example).

Polymer modified cement does not fix this. It just makes it a bit more flexible. LIke modified vs non-modified thinset.

Use reactive resin grouts, epoxy grouts, etc.

Then it will always be cleanable because they are not very porous (and some are just non-porous), so nothing can really soak into them except by being left forever, or being a chemical the grout is weak to softening the grout enough for something to stain it.

It takes me like 5 minutes with a steam cleaner to clean the grout in the bathrooms that have resin grouts from "a 6 year old uses this bathroom" to "it looks as new as the day it was made"

(Epoxy grout is nicer but if you don't get an aliphatic epoxy grout it will yellow in UV. Most people are not running around calling the tech line to talk about the chemistry of the grout, so resin grouts are usually a more solid DIY choice)

That's fucking terrifying!

What do you use for dealing after?

Fiber glass. But actually just get a hard suitcase from goodwill

You could just use some 8-in nails That's what I did worked great. Or honestly if you pre-drill you could drive oak pegs through them into the ground. I would use the nails

Take it apart and soak it in vinegar. Unfortunately your best option is to replace it.

Plastic sheeting of some kind of glue?

my suggestion ...stain the cement as dark black as possible. I mean ...of course clean it real good first. I have used a black grout pen on regular grout and it worked well.

Get a new toilet asap

I capped all my rebar holes with 1/2” diameter 1 1/2” long carriage bolts, secured with liquid nails. They are cheap and aesthetic.

Yes, absolutely. It was happening several years ago and they denied it for a very long time as far as I know. Then I believe they were recalled. My husband was a homebuilder and his company used them. It was a mess

No. It'll be fine. Unless the window is a magnifying glass

Cement board is not water proof. Use Red guard.

https://youtu.be/Hdd-RIFvkd8

We use 3/4 PVC like you would use rebar in the front yard years ago. The PVC outlasted the timbers.

We used a paddle bit, then just tapped the PVC down with a mallet slowly.

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As a sheet metal worker, I say buy a brake, another reason to purchase a new tool, and form your own Pittsburgs. No rivets necessary