ZEP makes a lot of really good stuff but you need to read the directions carefully because a lot of it leans toward “Industrial strength”.

Wow, that sounds genius. I think I’m going to try that.

ZEP grout cleaner and brightener is what I use and it does wonders. Don’t forget to seal it when you’re done.

Buy new window. Remove trim. Remove old window. Flash. Install new window. Finish flashing. Reinstall trim. Caulk and paint.

IMO the silicone around the base isn't a requirement. I think it is useful for uneven tile floors where the toilet might be inclined to rock slightly when weighted or floors where dirt could easily be awept under the toilet base.

You can tile outside of the shower over sheetrock. You need Hardie or cement board in the shower for all walls. Silicon all seams and use a trowel to flatten them. The three coats of redgaurd over the entire shower. And the seam where the sheetrock begins. Then tile over.

Either I suck at cleaning grout, or it's just really difficult to do. But I can never get it clean when it's so far gone. If you can't scour it with muriatic acid, you can grind it down in a couple different ways and re-grout.

The window that is causing trouble is up pretty high, I'd probably need scaffolding to do it, and putting it on the inside isn't an option. The foil I've put up on the outside has actually held up fairly well with storms and things like that.

If you want to use the current ducting, you need a fan that moves less air. Code-wise, you are not allowed to reduce the duct size coming out of the fixture.

I have replaced 3 toilets. I would almost rather do that than fix anything inside the tank. On one of them, I laid all the vinyl flooring on the same day as well. It's a very simple job if the rough in is good

Thanks for your suggestion. I'm not set on cement board, it was just my understanding of what I should use. I was thinking of hiring someone to do the tile so maybe I'll pass over your suggestion to them.

Replace it. I have a bunch of them broken in a dorm building I take care of. What usually happens is people try to crank it open when the lock is on or they try to close it then the lock is on and it bends metal inside the crank. Have had no luck repairing them.

Oh that I don't know. It weren't there when they changed it. They just told me they changed the toilet and put a silicon seal around the edge. So they probably changed it as well. Since the other toilet that was there was atleast 10+ years old and started to crack in the bottom.

Depends on your climate. In the Midwest we get lots of thaw freeze cycles and that wreaks havoc on pavers if you don’t have a good retaining system. The metal is fine for a bit but then after a few season your pavers start to shift. Concrete works the best if it’s deep enough.

That's for the outside edge. The wax seal thingy goes on the inside where the toilet meets the drain hole.

There are also reusable rubber types so maybe there already was one?

Yes, I've seen framing done by hammer length. Those were different times.

See if your toilet is new enough to be under warranty. It's not that difficult to replace your own toilet as long as you can lift that porcelain weight. Definitely worth the $200 for a toilet vs the potential water damage.

Can you see an issue with this, apart from being an eyesore? The crt monitor on the left is anchoring the cardboard on the left, and the wood is there to make all the cardboard stand up straight. But I had to wedge a couple of things between the monitor and wood. I have cinder blocks at the bottom of the right hand cardboard, with the imac further jamming the wood via cinder block behind it. https://imgur.com/a/7A6jtoj

Can you see an issue with this, apart from being an eyesore? The crt monitor on the left is anchoring the cardboard on the left, and the wood is there to make all the cardboard stand up straight. But I had to wedge a couple of things between the monitor and wood. I have cinder blocks at the bottom of the right hand cardboard, with the imac further jamming the wood via cinder block behind it. https://imgur.com/a/7A6jtoj

3/4 PVC?

I mean... I was responding to a bad idea with a bad idea, so...

You can use your cement board to end where you want and just use some sheet membrane out to the area the tiles extend. I myself don't care for cement board as it's not waterproof at all. But use Laticrete Hydroban board and sheet membrane on the edge and or Schluter and Mapei now makes waterproof board also. Much easier to work with. Not a fan of the Schluter but to each his own. Look up Sal Diblasi on U tube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8_EvJa3SYE and his latest video shows what to do with that area your worried about.

This 100% works great. Cracked some old window glass in our house been taped for over a year and it’s fine!

You're actually keeping things cooler because you're reflecting a lot of the light before it comes through and shines on anything. You won't hit nearly high enough temperatures for a fire or any off-gassing.

It could get pretty hot between the glass and EPS, but EPS has a melting point of 212° F (100° C) and an ignition temperature of 680°F (360°C). It won't get that hot.