Recent comments in /f/DIY

aircooledJenkins t1_j9r9ai9 wrote

HVAC engineer here.

We use 4" duct to move up to 35 cfm or so. If your fan is strong (most restroom fans are not) it could do more but will be loud.

My sizing criteria puts 3" duct at around 15 cfm for normal design conditions.

Your fan probably claims to be able to move something like 65-100 cfm. 4" duct works, but not well for long runs.

This doesn't help solve your problem, but it might illustrate why 3" isn't working.

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Bammer7 t1_j9r694a wrote

I just installed two Mansfield toilets in my house. I highly recommend them, if you decide to get a new one. I got it at Lowe's.

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kidMSP t1_j9r5sdc wrote

Don’t get a PVC window. They’re mostly junk, poorly designed to sell units at the expense of engineering for wicking moisture. Spend money on a good aluminum clad window. You’ll replace the window once, not very eight years. (Source: I’m a residential architect with 20+ years of specifying windows in a cold and wet climate.)

Also, sounds like what you’re looking for is a replacement/insert style window, where the exterior trim is typically not disturbed to avoid siding replacement/feathering and repainting. This can be a good option, although you will lose a bit of the window glazing size due to the insert frame being attached to the existing opening once the existing window is removed. The problem with inserts though is that while less disruptive to the exterior trim/siding, it doesn’t solve the main problem with cheap windows and construction…namely, the window flashing is bad and not installed properly. No matter what you put in there, you run the risk of being held to the original flashing install for moisture penetration.

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keylo-92 t1_j9r4b9x wrote

Get a new toilet… most toilets even come with an all in one tool you can use… may need a crescent for the old bolts tho… would suck to come home to a layer of water over the floor

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randomn49er t1_j9r2od2 wrote

I have always cut back the siding 3.5" and installed vinyl windows with the flange. Seal it up with blueskin and positive laps. Trim around window and caulk to finish.

I usually am able to get building paper around the perimiter and wrap that inside the opening an inch or 2. Then the blueskin on the sill. Then install the window and l bluesking over the flange on the sides and then the top so end up with positive laps.

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tatpig t1_j9r1sx9 wrote

likely two screws into the body through the sash from outside. gear wheel inside the body,usually made of cast pot metal. could be stripped. sometimes putting a bit of tension on the arm in the direction you want it to go helps,but it’s not a permanent fix.

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series_hybrid t1_j9r13pj wrote

Buy some clear bubble-wrap, take a can of spray adhesive and spray the glass. Cover the glass with bubble-wrap. This will seal the crack, and also provide extra insulation...

https://www.amazon.com/Mighty-Gadget-Cushioning-Perforated-Stickers/dp/B0B3PZXJYK/ref=sxin_16_ac_d_hl

https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K07010-11-Ounce-All-Purpose-Adhesive/dp/B000GLG7I2/ref=sr_1_5

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sanslenom t1_j9r10av wrote

If it's a double-paned window, the problem is that the crack has allowed the insulation to leak out. This happened to my mom, and that room was the only one that was painfully frigid. Added to that, the windows in the home are hard to open and close because they easily come off the track, which, in her case, created even more airflow from the outside. I would at least get a couple estimates (if you own) or ask the landlord to have someone come out (if you don't own). If your landlord is uncooperative, buy some window film and thermal curtains. If that proves to be too expensive, tape the crack and the window edges with clear duct tape and cover the window with a thick blanket.

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MrsDerpson31B t1_j9r0fko wrote

Ouch, I hear stuff like that all the time though. Fucking vultures. My partner and I have a window/door install company, and we have people buy their windows directly from the manufacturer per our measurements and then pay us for the install after it's done. We make more per window than any of those companies will ever pay installers, and the people that hire us save like 40% of what they would've paid those scammers. It's bananas, sometimes we have to convince people that we're not scammers because they don't understand how we can be that much lower than "the industry standard".

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meusiclver t1_j9qzjj7 wrote

The "just" can be used to imply inferior, derogatory, less than, or a way to diminish others feelings. "Why are you excited, it's just a song?" "Don't worry, she's just a girl". In both examples it is a song or a girl, but the just changes the tone and meaning of the sentence. If the sentence was, It's a trailer, not a house, so the walls are thinner, that is a different tone than it's just a trailer not a real house. The use of real implies that which is not real is a knock off or inferior as well.

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jetty_junkie t1_j9qybin wrote

no, you aren't overthinking it. when i was doing my fan i did some reading an apparently 3" duct can olny handle so much air, so when you adapat a larger fan you often get backpressure because its pushing air in faster than it can go out.

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as for the changing it the vent it can be super easy or impossible depending on your house and how the vent pipe is routed because 4" vent isn't going to fit in a 2x4 framed wall cavity so if it's a 2nd floor bathroon with attic access thats easy, but if its a 1st floor bathroom that vents through the roof that's a different story

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Germandross t1_j9qvqud wrote

Since your cabinet is white, I'd try to get a cabinet touch up kit at your local hardware store. Home depot has them in a few colors. If nothing else, it will fill in the low spot and create a flat surface for you to repaint the entire door.

Also, you may need to get a paint that is meant for cabinetry and trim. Usually it is a urethane based paint. Should be able to be color matched if you bring the door into the shop.

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