I went through two of that style of faucet, where the whole thing moves, and had the same problem of them becoming hard to move.

Then I was at Costco one day and spotted this faucet.

The flow rate is a little less than I would like and the spray pattern takes some getting used to, but the base doesn't turn, only the top portion does, and the extra height comes in handy, and I think it looks pretty cool. I've had it over a year and don't regret it at all.

So, if you're taking yours out to clean it, give some consideration to replacing it with one that doesn't suck.

Replace it, they are not as expensive as a flood ruining a lot of stuff

I would just install the window inside the frame, and them trim round with some PVC corner trim, which I think you can get in up to 60mm, so it would easily cover the missing parts of the siding.

Yep. Couple days back when it started really doing it enough to convince me that the furnace wasn't just struggling to keep up with the extremely cold weather.

It looks like the exact same model faucet I installed in my kitchen years ago. It is, in fact, an utter piece of garbage, and anything you try to do to fix it will be, at best, temporary.

The problem is in its basic design: the retractable hose WILL leak eventually, and all the leaked water will drip down into the base, which WILL mineralize and/or corrode.

I finally got sick of it and stopped wasting good effort on a bad faucet. I replaced it with a tall-neck design, where the retractable hose pulls down from the neck, rather than up as with the old one. Less than an hour of work, and now no more aggravation!

Nope, there’s no fix to porcelain toilet crack. It needs to be replaced.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDlUbuNU05M

Thank you very much for the response, it was informative and helpful. We were actually both right - my thermostat is having problems and needs replacement, but they're all user-interface and display panel issues. Getting the heat back on was just replacing the filter (Which I realized when I went to check it today was last done 18 months ago. Where does the time go?).

Have you replaced the batteries?

You could try using some floss to clean out in the bottom and upper cracks. Might work or might not. Next step is probably disassembling the faucet, which can be pretty tricky.

Eh, I started at the thermostat because I'm a systems integrator and the first problem solving step is "Turn it off and on again". When I flipped the 'heat/off/cold' selector lever on the thermostat to 'off', the LCD display declined to switch off the 'heat on' section. If you touch the non-touchscreen display it spazzes out, and so does attempting to access the user or installer menus.

Lastly, the furnace would work correctly if the thermostat was popped off the wall, batteries popped out, then replaced on the wall until it reached the demand temp. Once it got to the demand temp first time, it would stop working again until the thermostat got power cycled or at least removed from the wall again.

But really I just tried to turn it off and on again and it wouldn't turn off properly.

And I may have misread your comment. If you're talking about establishing the wiring patterns, I can sort of see that, but on the other hand it's kind of like going back to the patch panel to see if it's wired for 568A or B instead of just looking at the socket you're switching out. Feels like a wasted effort if everything in the wall box makes sense.

You need to replace that tank ASAP. If the crack opens up while you are out of the house, the fill valve will just continue to run and you will be looking at some serious flood damage.

Read Mark E. Eberhart's Why Things Fail to understand why cracks in most materials just get bigger. Thank your toilet for not failing catastrophically (yet).

Slip 'n Slide

That looks like either a gloss, or clear topcoat of polly, probably sprayed onto veneer or MDF. But super small, so easy to hide. You might try sanding that more flat, primer, then a wood bondo/filler. You don't have to go nuts tho, just give the primer something to grab and make the edge easier to bond and bury, sand too much and you can blow thru the veneer.

I would lay it flat on a bench or horses, for work, use a rattle can primer, shook xtr well, test the spray on scrap, and if it spits, use a foam roller to lay it flat. Filler and sand the filler flush n smooth, primer again, then paint. Less is always more. Both filler, and paint.

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Gotta replace it. Easy DIY project. If your in a money bind used toilets are very cheap (or altogether free)

Maybe it's just me, but starting at the thermostat has always been baffling.

I always start at the furnace, figure out what's connected to what down there. Informed with this I can head upstairs and decode the thermostat.

Have a pro look at it or just replace the toilet if you can. If the tank cracks or otherwise keeps leaking your house will flood because the float vavle will never stop the stream of water. My neighbor's house flooded exactly this way.

Thank you. I lost a screw inside the hole. I have to buy some more. I'm done for today lol

Not going to lie - thought this was a /nosleep when I saw the title.

https://ibb.co/wcgrBJw

Thank you for your insight. Definitely star-drive and 2-1/4 long.

Thank you for your response.

Yes, CMU (and solid in some places). The plans call for 1/2, but I’d like to install 5/8 all around, including ceiling.

As someone who grew up in a trailer I wish you had said that is a trailer, not a "house" so the walls are very thin. Your use of just and "not a real house" hurt past me feelings