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I’m trying to go no maintenance so definitely considering the pavements option but pavements need gravel base and I’m concerned about the gravel moving towards the neighbors. Will a metal or stone retaining wall be enough?

It sounds like you're trying to cover an oil base or maybe polyurethane with an acrylic paint? How was the cabinet finished prior?

Just a guess without a pic, but, yes. More sanding, then primer, then paint. Especially if you're covering poly. It can only save headache later to primer now, regardless if the paint can claims it has primer in it. A good primer is going to penetrate better, and will help tannins bleeding through, discoloring the finish. Ever try to paint an old chest white, only to have funny yellow spots bleed thru later? Prolly old oak, and those are tannins bleeding. Primer will help this immensely.

Sanding can be optional tho. Sometimes stuff is super intricate, and sanding can damage design or inlays. You can use a cabinet deglosser for these spots. Then primer.

Prep is always key in good paint adhesion and coverage. Take the time to do it right. Wipe it down with some mineral spirits after sanding to help pick up any loose stuff left, follow the recommended ventilation guidelines for whatever you're using, and wear your PPE.

Depends on how much maintenance you want.

Similar side walkway here, but dropped in concrete pavers decades ago and never need to deal with mud, grass, etc. Just a clean walkway front to back.

Naturally, you'll install with a slope away from the home, and towards the front of the home so rain naturally flows towards, then under that fence door then to the curb. Against the side fence, you'll want to slope away from that, too, so the water doesn't run into the neighbors. So looking at the walkway - a slight "v" shape for the slopes.

Naturally, if the neighbor's land is sloped such that it'll dump rain at their side of the fence, you might still get too much water on your side (rain from both sides pooling on your walkway).

If they don't slope and drain properly, only way is to replace that wood fence with a concrete block wall that'll keep their water on their side. (And then instead of a wood fence lasting a decade to a few, a concrete wall that'll last many decades.)

If you have tons of rain, any drain system can help if it tends to pool in one place despite proper sloping. For extremely rainy areas, you might even need underground catch basins. And modify the gutter drain to dump water on the other aside of the fence door, ideally many feet away from the foundation, too.

Also, used to be you needed tons of digging and sand and base, but with plastic paver bases and weed liners, much quicker and easier to get a nice base for the pavers.

Your never going to get that crack to be water tight. If you can find a replacement tank get a new tank, but otherwise just swap out the toilet. It can be totally DIYed with minimal tools.

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Fair enough 😂

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It’s easier to get consistent glue coverage. Basically the ame reason why they don’t sell thinset in tubes.

Based on the images, you might get away with using 4 or so screws around the original hole going into the plastic end of the post from the carpeted plank bit. This all depends on if there is much for the threads to bite into behind the plastic.

Google "ground cover for shade" and your planting zone. See what comes up. It's okay if ground cover goes over the drain covers, it can easily be moved or cut away when you need access.

Cracked tanks eventually lead to flooded houses.

All of the models of toilet in my home have been recalled for tank cracking. For a limited period there were new tanks you could buy and install, but they're all discontinued/NLA.

Just get a new John.

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I’ve been dealing with incorrectly installed windows in my house. The house is stucco, and the building paper which provides the water proofing was cut back when the windows were installed, so water leaks through the gap between the window and the building paper. The issue is under the surface so it was hard to track down until we took off the trim surrounding the window. In our case the fix was to remove the trim then cut out stucco if needed until we reached the existing building paper, then tick Moiststop under the building paper and over the window flanges. This fixed the issue.

I’m not familiar with wood siding as a water proofing system, so things may be different for you. If it relies on a moisture barrier that’s under the siding, the leak could be coming from that. I’d start by removing the trim to see if you can see issues with the waterproofing under there. If you can’t, you could cut back the siding further until you can fit the PVC window flanges in such a way that you can properly water proof it, then re trim the window and you’re good to go.

Not sure if that helps, but we drove ourselves crazy trying figure out why our windows were leaking.

1/2" drywall is approved for 24" on-center, perpendicular to the framing. 99.99% of the jobs I've been on were 16" on-center, and 16" is required for parallel sheets.

24" to 30" would be fine, if every fastener grabs. Assuming this is going over CMU, not solid cast-in-place concrete?

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Yeah, I can see it. Almost looks like it's was chipped a little bit.

I'll it give a try, thank you

The red parts are the ones that are broken.

Fill the screw hole completely with wooden toothpicks soaked in wood glue. Wait a day or two for it to dry. Drill to a hole a bit smaller than the diameter of the screw. Don't overtighten when screwing into the new hole. If you never intend on taking it apart, add some strong Locktite onto the threads of the screw.

Do you see a crack in the porcelain or could it be leaking from under the tank? If it’s the second it might just need a new seal.

cat tower

I had a crack in my tank and after reading online decided to replace the toilet. My toilet was older and where the crack was, was a difficult part to repair. I did see videos on YouTube of how to water seal that crack which looked easy enough.

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Generally you can custom order windows for Renovations. You give them the total outside dimensions for the brick mold and they build the window to that size. You also tell them the custom jamb depth. I would assume you can have a 60mm depth built. I would call window guys and ask these questions and get a price.