Recent comments in /f/DIY

DudebuD16 t1_j9p2bmm wrote

Reply to comment by CubanInSouthFl in Furring Strip Fastener Spacing on Concrete (South Florida) by CubanInSouthFl

I'd honestly go 16" apart(I'm assuming this is for running the furring vertically? Minimum 8 feet?). 5/8 drywall isn't light and humidity can affect the wood and cause it to warp, leaving you with more problems.

The better it's fastened the better your finished product is gonna be. It seems like a lot but do it right now so you don't have to do it again later.

As for tapcon size, 3/16 is fine. For length id go with a 2 1/4" tapcon(also depends on your location as a 2" will do but for my region they don't have them). Also, get a flat head Philips or star drive, no hex heads as the hex heads will either stick out or youll have to drive them so deep that you can split the wood

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DudebuD16 t1_j9otfnz wrote

Reply to Furring Strip Fastener Spacing on Concrete (South Florida) by CubanInSouthFl

For the furring strips for the drywall, any wood screw should do. Some people use drywall screws but as a drywaller, they're not meant fasten wood together like a wood screw, they're also brittle compared to a wood screw.

As for your spacing for the concrete furrs, are you using that to hang drywall as well?

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Mammoth-Pain-358 t1_j9onj88 wrote

Reply to comment by WealthyMarmot in Circuit loses power GFCI by SorenAmroth

I have done a lot of electrical work. NEC electrical code article 210.12(A), installing an AFCI breaker is required in all single-phase and 15 to 20 amp circuits with a 120V supply. This rule applies to the area of the kitchen, most rooms of a house, and hallways. Bathrooms are required to have GFCI outlets and AFCI breakers are not required. Also, you can install a GFCI outlet on a circuit with a GFCI breaker. The NEC doesn’t encourage this practice however.

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MammothWoodpecker512 OP t1_j9omjjs wrote

Reply to comment by zedsmith in Adhesive type for wall planks by MammothWoodpecker512

I didn't buy it =( It's leftover from a project at my parent's house, they were going to throw it away but I took it with the hopes of salvaging it.

I like the old-fashioned glue and nail approach recommended by others, any reason you would recommend a trowelable substrate? Like one used for a backsplash I assume?

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doranmauldin t1_j9oims3 wrote

Reply to Help needed with replacing a window by Present-Substance-82

You might try calling around to some window suppliers. There’s a chance you get someone on the line who has dealt with something like this before and they might end up making a suggestion that you didn’t think of.

Definitely let us know what solution you end up finding and good luck!

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Lebzeppelin2112 t1_j9ogf3w wrote

Reply to Thermostat wiring missing fan relay? by VictoryInChains

HVAC service tech here. If you are interested in having your fan run continuously (which I recommend) it can be done using your set up provided that the new thermostat can run on batteries. If it can use batteries then the green wire that goes to C can be moved to G in the stat as well as in the furnace cabinet.

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loki2k8 t1_j9o7ji0 wrote

Reply to Thermostat wiring missing fan relay? by VictoryInChains

This is pretty standard. Fan wires generally are only used when you want to run the blower without heat or ac. When heat is called for, the logic on the control board handles blower operation, as the precise order/timing will vary from furnace to furnace. On mine, for instance, when the thermostat calls for heat:

The small draw/exhaust blower runs for ~30sec to clear the combustion chamber

The ignitor heats

The gas valve opens and combustion starts

Wait~20-30 seconds

Then the main blower starts.

If your furnace is short cycling (shutting off before reaching the demand temp, despite the thermostat still calling for heat) this issue is likely at the furnace. Have you replaced your filter recently? Too low of airflow over the heat exchanger can cause a safety shutdown. Another common cause of short cycling is a flame sensor getting gunked up.

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