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Install a sink. Piss in the sink.

Just because it’s tripping, doesn’t mean there is actually a problem with the fridge. The outlet might just be too sensitive and tripping, often caused by a motor starting and stopping.

> The fridge should really be on a dedicated circuit and also not downstream from a GFCI.

Yeah, as long as the fridge outlet is at least six feet from the sink. Otherwise it requires a GFCI (at least in my area).

Have now fixed the Hot NEu Reversed and all outlets are wired properly. My current beleif is that fridge is the culprit.

An aging Samsung smart fridge was never totally fond of ><

Have now fixed the Hot NEu Reversed and all outlets are wired properly. My current beleif is that fridge is the culprit.

An aging Samsung smart fridge was never totally fond of ><

Have now fixed the Hot NEu Reversed and all outlets are wired properly. My current beleif is that fridge is the culprit.

An aging Samsung smart fridge was never totally fond of ><

Fridge alone trips it.

> OP said the outlet is GFCI not the breaker. You can't have both together.

Sure you can. It's just unnecessary and occasionally makes troubleshooting a little annoying.

> GFCI specifications were changed to Arc fault because everyone complained GFCI'S tripped too often.

GFCIs and AFCIs are two totally different things. AFCIs in no way replace GFCIs and won't protect against ground faults (unless the fault causes arcing). Maybe you mean switching a GFCI breaker out for a combo breaker that does both?

> I would love to replace all these stupid outlets and breakers in my house if it wasn't for insurance reasons.

They're there for a very good reason, especially the GFCIs. And frankly it doesn't sound like you should be replacing anything.

Refrigerators should be on their own dedicated circuit.

My guess is that, as your fridge has gotten older, it is drawing more power when the compressor kicks on that it used to.

It is also entirely possible that the fridge compressor has developed a legit ground fault that needs to be addressed.

The first step is unplugging or shutting off everything else in that circuit and leave it off to see if the fridge alone will trip the GFI.

One other question: are you plugging anything at all into the GFI outlet? How about the switched outlet?

Glad you liked it! Started doing the 'sock technique' a few decades ago, and I'm at the point now where its my go-to, especially on woods that take stain up a little differently in patches. Not having brushes to clean up is a huge plus, too!

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I've found the sock works even better. You can wiggle it around to expose less-coated areas, curl your fingers down and expose more area closer to the top of the sock to absorb/spread more stain, and getting the sock off of the nitrile is easier. Plus old socks are free! The reason I specified nitrile instead of latex for the base glove is to help resist the stain. Latex will start to allow some stains to bleed through. I use 5 mil nitriles, and they're great.

I know what an island vent is. I’m saying he didn’t install the faucet. It’s not a reno, he just redid the countertops.

As far as the vent goes, we have no idea what the plumbing actually looks like. So speculating is pointless.

The fridge should really be on a dedicated circuit and also not downstream from a GFCI. Fridge motors + GFCI doesn’t always play nice.

If hot and neutral are truly reversed, you probably have a black wire going where a white one should go…somewhere on that circuit. The GFCI should be wired so it doesn’t protect things downstream. If not possible because one of those outlets is close to water, I’d really recommend a licensed electrician.

It needs an island vent. It offsets under the window and by code you cant offset below flood level rim of the fixture. To vent without the offset would require it to rise straight up which it can't...obviously.

You don't purchase an island vent, you have to oversize the drain and loop the vent from the sink apex back into the oversize pipe, in this case, it should be a 3" drain. here is an illustration https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fterrylove.com%2Fimages%2Fisland_vent_1b.jpg&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fterrylove.com%2Fforums%2Findex.php%3Fthreads%2Fisland-sink-venting.43049%2F&tbnid=H1dkqasDSFGZrM&vet=12ahUKEwipjuPqoar9AhURh-4BHeknA4gQMygBegUIARDLAw..i&docid=8ppTsAUDa6_OhM&w=512&h=459&q=island%20vent&client=firefox-b-1-d&ved=2ahUKEwipjuPqoar9AhURh-4BHeknA4gQMygBegUIARDLAw

Ask the person selling it to you what adhesive the manufacturer recommends.

It’ll be a flooring adhesive, but (hopefully) it’ll be trowelable and sold by the bucket, which I prefer over liquid nails.

And yeah, pin nail to hold it while the glue cures would be nice.

I just had a similar issue where the end outlet read hot/neutral reversed (even though correctly wired at the outlet) and GFCI kept tripping. It was caused by mixing up the supply neutral (bottom) with the outgoing protected neutral (top).

Check supply hot/neutral are both on the bottom connectors and the protected run hot/neutral are on the top.

Just replaced a GFCI and had two bad ones in a row, different brands from different stores. Third time lucky... :)

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When you say "the circuit loses power", do you mean it trips in the breaker box?

The GFCI will only trip things "downstream" if they are connected to the "load" terminals on the back of the GFCI. If they are in parallel, the GFCI will not trip anything other than it's own outlets.

Is the refrigerator on the GFCI? It would not surprise me if the refrigerator didn't trip the GFCI when it was young, but as it got old the compressor kicking on started to draw more current (to overcome more friction as parts age).

Regardless of all that, I would probably address the Reversed Hot/Neutral issue first.

Construction adhesive But I highly recommend that you brad nail every other row or two.

Liquid Nails.

Only do this if you don't mind that it's going to destroy the drywall when you (or future homeowner) decides to take it off.

Because homeowners do crazy stupid shit that they half understand.