I’ll be that guy: and it’s barely noticeable

It might be hooked up to two breakers. Just shutoff everything if you want to replace it and don’t care about resolving the unknown breaker issue.

Could perhaps make a jig and row drill each leg, using cabinet shelf clips

Look I’ve read the comments and I’m a master mason with over 30 years, almost 40, of experience. First the picture isn’t good enough to make any suggestions with a clear conscience.Without a full picture I wouldn’t give you any advice except to go get the original blueprints at the abatement company in your county or town that will show the construction of it. If it’s not original then you should get a professional chimney service to look at it. The cost is minor considering what damage could be done by having no information. I’m sure you can DIY this even if it’s gas. Most of these are just facades with a galvanized double tube that was already removed when the roof was done. There are just to many variables for me to give you advice. I read how you should do several different things all of which could cause serious damage and injury. I can give you a list of my certifications that show how experienced I am. There’s nothing that’s worse than to have a collapse because you took out a structural member. I hope this helps you and at least gives you some direction. Chimney companies will charge for their time but they will also give you a lot of information and of course having the prints are great to see exactly what your home footprint is and if you’re going to need permits. That can get expensive if you change something on your home and the city hits you with a fine and you have to use a licensed contractor. In other words get information from the sources available not here. Good luck and god bless.

> added to support weight

I doubt it. The chimney is the last thing you want as a structural support for joists or rafters. If anything, you want as little wood touching it as possible because of the fire risk.

Bit by bit disassembly is the way you'll see if it's supporting anything important.

I have a book on making federal period furniture. Nearly all of the plans call for using veneer whenever possible. For example, the card table build has the legs and top being solid mahogany, but the apron would be veneered poplar or pine. The build itself is based off an actual museum piece as well, so it's not like they were trying to cheap it out for modern woodworkers.

I think he's talking about how the faucet is actually attached to the wall, meaning the plumbing is in the exterior wall. Usually the faucets come out of the countertop and the plumbing is in the cabinet below the sink.

As for if this is realistically an issue in a colder climate? idk. In Minnesota I've never seen a set up like this.

Lol read the article — it’s a concern as an occupational hazard, not sanding oak veneer one time

Only if it's the 5x5 kallax. 2x4 or 2x2 are too common.

Uh

Put a rubber mat or a cutting board over the spot and forget about it

Back in the day they would take solid oak and put a veneer of exotic imported wood. Yes it was the cheaper version of the time, but it was still hand crafted and zero particle board. Worlds better craftsmanship than modern stuff

Veneers have been used in fine furniture for centuries, and that's aside from the art of marquetry.

For example, burls look pretty, but don't make a great structural choice.

[deleted]

You're telling me my grandmother's Kallax isn't going to find my retirement?

On a technical note, I'd reccomend checking out installation guides that focus on thermal bridges and airtightness - you can make a huge difference to your buildings performance quite eaisly at this stage. Somethink like this: https://www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/post/airtightness-window-junctions-sealing-tape-or-liquid-membrane

This makes me happy that I didn’t get the IKEA countertops. I went with real butcher block and I’m able to sand and stain the crap out of it for less than the ikea countertops

• Your question does not include the research you've done to find an answer yourself, or why that research didn't answer your question.

This is a basic requirement so others do not spend time repeating your steps. It is not a judgement about your question being "too easy." We're looking for evidence that you've made an attempt yourself.

• Please do not use /r/DIY as your first stop for questions - we are not Google.

• Please search Google and /r/DIY to see if your question has been asked before. Check owners manuals, tech support forums or contact the manufacturer.

• Have you already done some basic research and are still stuck?

• Please include what research you have done in your question so that others do not repeat your steps.

• Consider posting your question in the sticky thread at the top of the subreddit.

• Ask your question in our Discord server in the appropriate channel.

Please read our guidelines before resubmitting.

If you believe this was a mistake, please message the moderators.

I hope you get it off soon and recovery is in your future. Best of luck!

the big thing for me anymore is ladders.. I don't like them, I don't like working on them.

I am always on a 6' fiberglass step ladder, but much beyond that I don't care for.

I still do it when I have to, but I haven't been able to shake the uncomfortable feeling when being anything much over 6-8' it lessens as I spend more time, but quickly returns the next time.

Oh Boy.... You don't understand pipes are in a freeze wall?

[deleted]

I would have thought "high value antique" and veneers were mutually exclusive

[deleted]

And don’t even mention chalk paint lol