>They may charge more

They will charge more.

Id lightly sand the whole thing till it looks uniform then reapply a finish to the whole thing. Id use liberon worktop oil

Wood VENEER countertop?? I guess it’s not much different than the Formica we used to have, but we always had to be very careful with the surface.

Thanks

essentially, but check with them about the specifics. They may charge more.

Bad idea. That veneer is very thin. 150 is too gritty. Already having oil on it, it's not going to go well sanding anymore because to make it all even would be too much for the veneer before you can evenly sand with the oil on it

I would bet you will sand through the veneer if you try anymore. You should have gone with actual butcher block tops for countertops. These will not hold up well either for a kitchen. I just made 2 solid butcher block top desks with shelves and pipe legs, for computers with my cousin and we didn't use Ikea because getting solid was just not very much more money.

Ok so since I already have a building inspector hired I can just ask them to give my work a once over?

Yes, you can fit them yourself, but you will need to have the work insepcted by the building inspector (council or approved third party). Contact them and ask them what evidence they need and what visits they will need to make so that they can pass the work as satisfactory.

This is just about 100% right, but just to say two things:

Even with a colorless oil, or the right color (you could take colorless oil and use tints if you had to, to get it the right color) the sheen will likely be wrong, and you will still notice because it will still catch your eye.

It is basically impossible to permanently change the sheen of a non-film forming finish, because the sheen change is done with flatteners (usually silica dust or something) that sit on top of the cured finish[1], and in a non-film forming finish, it will just wipe away ;)

Also

The film finishes still wet (they have to), just not as deep. This is why some of them are not great at bonding, like epoxies - they have trouble wetting the surface, and thus, you only get a mechanical bond instead of a chemical one.

How much they wet can still be noticeable on thinner veneers, depending on the finish/backing.

Normally i'd say 1/8th veneer like this is would be fine, but red oak is very porous, and so it's harder to say.

[1] The final sheen is always determined by what is on top

> my guess is because the treatment IKEA puts on was removed

This would be my guess too. The only solution would be to (carefully) sand and reseal the whole thing.

New windows requires B Regs, this can be done by self certifying under a competant persons scheme ie FENSA, or by applying for B Regs to the local authority or private inspeector as you did with the other work.

You could likely loosen the two nuts holding the toilet down and turn it 5 degrees with no modifications. I’ve also seen an older toilet and tank that sits in a corner which would surly look the best. Better yet though you should consult a professional with pictures from in the bathroom and below if possible. Have a tape measure near by aswell.

If you want a good laugh check out the Kohler Numi. https://www.kohler.com/en/products/toilets/shop-toilets/numi-2-0-one-piece-elongated-smart-toilet-dual-flush-30754-pa?skuId=30754-PA-0

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a finishing repair is gonna look like a finishing repair unless you know exactly what you are doing and what colors to mix into the multiple coats of refinish to hide the repair. even for cheap-ass ikea, i'm sure they used a modern high durability finish and it probably won't be easy to match it.

lesson learned. biscuit joints aren't perfect. next time clamp something sturdy and flat across the finished side of the joint that wont stick to glue, like lumber, plywood, and wax paper.

> If the veneer is damaged or sealant ruined and not resealed it could seep in water from the nearby sink, causing more damage and repairs to complete.

But that's the thing, the countertop is well sealed right now how it is. The sealant just went deeper where it was sanded more, so the color is off. If OP sands everything down with the higher grit sandpaper to reseal everything, the veneer will get thinner and if a future reseal is needed there is a bigger risk of sanding through it.

It is very difficult to comment here effectively without a site visit. When joists rest on ledges around a chimney they are surely doing some “work” structurally. Starting in the attic and working your way down you will quickly find out what the chimney is really holding.

Oh yea. I’ve seen them pop up within the last few months at least being advertised a lot. They are expensive. The ones I saw are 1000+ but they are also ones with like a bidet, air dryer, self open and close lids.

No one seems to have brought up your use of mineral oil.

Regardless of your problem, mineral oil is a 'wet oil'. It is used for cutting boards and the like because you never have to worry about working through a hardened finish. It does not fully dry or cure when exposed to air. It washes off over time and will need to be reapplied. You could possibly do a whole counter in this, but usually not.

A drying oil forms a hard protective surface when exposed to air. Drying oils can be used for furniture finishes, etc, where you would never use mineral oil. Think of it like a thin varnish.

Your countertop came with a protective finish. You sanded it off and then finished with something very different that won't dry in that section. I would not doubt this IS related to your problem, causing the color difference, but just in general, don't mix wet and dry oils for finishes.

Shirley, don't sue a stripper

"Why?"

Because she's a stripper. Life sued her, and she lost

Use the chimney as a trash chute of course. If you got a hand truck/horizontal dolly, you can put a large plastic container (think mid height storage containers) on top of the dolly and push it inside the chimney to make cleanup easier. Some cardboard laying in the bottom of the plastic container will soften the impact of demolished material and prolong the container integrity and life. About 3/4" thick of cardboard worth from the attic, and an additional 0.5" thicker for each floor more than one (yes it's over kill). Replace as necessary, and always before the bottom layer is damaged, including being crushed. If it's crushed but not torn/penetrated, put that layer on top of a new cardboard stack.

And if you don't have a hand truck, it's worth the investment for any home. You don't use it every month, or perhaps year, but damn does it save your back!

Mulching flowerbeds? Throw the bags on the dolly. Tearing out a concrete foundation home play set? Chain link fence? A hideous looking rock garden? Invasive hedge rows? Did the creek in your backyard flood and deposit driftwood? Throw that shit in the dolly. Hand trucks are easier than using a wheel barrow to transport to the dumpster or whatever. Just get 6" castors/wheels or larger for outdoors, and 3 or 4" castors for indoors, with the thickest rubber you can find for longevity. A wider wheel works better in irrigated/wet lawns than a narrow one of course. Also, don't buy a plastic hand truck; get all metal parts excluding tires.

Now I'm thinking about using my hand truck to carry groceries inside with one trip. Maybe I can start using it weekly! The possibilities of use are endless, really. My hand truck is older than I am too.

Furthermore, do you run a bar or venue? There are keg dollies with a curved skeleton to safely move 1/2 barrel kegs from storage to tap. Some even have an adjustable gravity latch to lock the keg in place for smooth handling.

Paid for by Big Hand Truck Manufacturing of America. /s

This reads like a newspaper consumer op-ed. It ain't. Just a fan of not fucking my back up anymore than it already is. Get a 2 in 1 hand truck dolly. You'll thank yourself for it.

I did this with ikea walnut counter tops and had the same result. There is a finish on the wood which you have sanded through. The learnings and fix for me was: (1) sand all the finish for the whole benchtop. the veneer is 2-3mm thick so it wont be an issue. (2) throw the oil in the bin and put down a nice coat of polyurethane. It looks a million bucks now.

> more yellow

A linseed oil thing, moreso than an oil thing.

Also: Where's the back Edging?