It’s less than ideal. Hahaha.

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BRILLIANT idea for staining. Thank you for this!!

Well I’m glad you don’t care about your deposit.

You can run hot water through the pvc ptrap and then snug the nuts at bit more. You don’t need to crank on them, just enough so they don’t drip, and then maybe a quarter turn beyond that.

Yes but those are still very uncommon in residential. That’s why I asked though.

If your house has the pressure the 1” connection could be doable still. Have to make/buy a pressure gauge to fit on a hose bibb and run some other fixtures in your house to see what happens. Short burst of water from the valve would only really be noticeable if you were in the shower. As others have mentioned this could be a lot of rework depending where you upsize your water to and probably would need a water hammer arrestor for the toilet too.

Zoeller Quik Jon would help with that. Macerating toilet with a pump. Happy to run some numbers with you if you’re serious about it.

Sand with the grain not against it

Do you put plumbers putty on rain downspouts, or roofing tiles? Plumbing traps are designed to permit water to flow past...but whether they're sealed during a clog you'll have to consider. Drains don't clog much...and when they do there's not often much static head of water weight - provided all orings or gaskets are in good condition that's all you should need...but I cannot see your trap/pipes - you say pvc cement so they're white/grey plastic...or possibly abs...you should absolutely NOT cement them...as that defeats the purpose of being able to easily disassemble. The rubber gaskets should maintain the seal provided your alignments are good. The goal is to get the gaskets to do the proper sealing.

Large masonry sawzall blade

This x 100. It broke, and it broke there for a reason. JB Weld isn't going to cut it.

In fact given that it cracked around a factory weld/location/mounting point, it probably needs some reinforcement as well.

Yeah I would weld that, but I have a welder. If I didn't, I would still try and get that welded, nothing else will last.

[deleted]

Plywood is stronger and, if you’re sensitive to off-gassing, melamine is loaded with chemicals.Many cheap building products are unfortunately. That and it tends to mushrooms up if you are using nails or screws.

I've seen many a high dollar antique ruined because someone sanded through veneer. You're absolutely correct that it is incredibly easy to do accidentally

Ummm... there is no selection for "Menards pine". I have no idea which variety of the 30 types of pine most of my interior items are built out of!

Why not melamine

3/4” thick anything , but never use melamine or MDF.

It’s a joke. Isn’t it?

I always put plumbers putty in the p-trap threads gives me more sense of security and won’t leak. Takes an extra 30 secs for peace of mind. The ring seals especially rubber will eventually rot out but the putty will stay there.

Start in the attic at the top

Knock the bricks into the chimney one at a time and have someone at the bottom with a flat shovel to remove them as they fall. Toss them into a five gallon bucket and haul them out .