That is definitely a joint that's under flexing stress; anything other than a brazing or welding repair will not last. If you can free up that part so its available, a weld repair on that is maybe a 10-15 minute job (especially if you don't mind it not looking perfect!).

If the new P-trap is plastic, you don't need putty, and absolutely don't use pvc cement unless you want to replace it every time you need to clean the trap!
The seals should be fine. The only place you should be concerned is where it transitions into the main waste. The transition fitting should be cemented to the waste pipe, with the proper seals there. If its a metal nut to a metal transition, make sure its clean and the seal is positive on that pipe (that's the only place I've ever used putty - transitioning a new pvc p trap to an ancient pipe on a house built in the 1930's)

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/search#q=coffee%20table%20lift&t=product-search-tab&sort=relevancy&layout=card&numberOfResults=25

Be careful about over-sanding that veneer. I would sand enough to get through the sealer. And if it were me I would use a pre-stain conditioner to try to help even the stain application. My favorite stain applicator for something like this is a regular cotton sock put over a nitrile glove - that way I can spread the stain with better control, run over spots that I may be having some trouble with, and help remove any excess applied stain with the back of my hand.

They have toilets now for residential that don’t have a tank in the wall or attached on top.

I commend your girlfriends dream of being a pole dancer and wish her well. That said I think you will bring the ceiling down on your heads. Please do not try this in your rented apartment.

Thanks, good to know! Appreciate your advice.

I believe this is because of different grit being used than whatever the rest was sanded at. It will take stain and seal differently than the rest because of the number of ridges in the wood (more/shallow in high-grit sanded areas, fewer/deeper with lower grit)

Birch laminate would be good, I think.

For a closet for clothing- I would probably get cedar and just make sure there are plenty of supports.

It needs to be welded. You could do some creative fabrication but just take it apart and get it welded.

To remove iron from water you need to oxidize it then filter it with a sediment filter. A greensand filter will use a chemical reaction to achieve this. You wont find this at HD, you need to get this from a company who specializes in water treatment.

Personally, I'd go with ceder if you're storing clothes in there. It'll help keep moths away.

Ditto this. I had a motion detection switch in my garage that made lights flicker after a few years. A new one fixed it.

p.s. Motion detection light switches all pretty much suck, imho.

But does it work on wood?

Be extra careful so you don't sand through the veneer it's easy to do.

Just smash it down. The protrusions don't impact anything that isn't chimney, and you're removing that

Video is not much more helpful than the picture. It needs more context. I can't tell where the forces are coming from or how you could get at the failure to repair it. Likely adhesive won't work. You probably need to find some way to buttress the joint.

I used white pine common boards and they have been great for the last five years.

You can also disconnect the toilet and place the tank high above with a long downflow pipe and a donut connection. Old toilets were arranged like this to provide extra pressure to flush with a chain on the handle that hung down. It works for cramped WCs as it gets the tank out of the way.

This will let you use a regular commode and not the commercial ones that require a much bigger supply line. Your toilet flange might need to be changed but thats fairly easy.

edit: 10" rough-in toilets exist and are great for small spaces. That's all I install now and I love the space it saves.

Yeah, that is what I will be doing. Starting in the attic. I just wanted some opinions because I thought they might have been added to support weight making the chimney load bearing (one protrudes into what I believe is a load bearing wall). I doubt it is, but I just wanted some opinions/advice before I start bringing it down in case someone has a chimney like this and wants to caution me to not take it down without shoring up the wall

My WAG is that the bottom 5-6' is solid brick. The box on top and above the ceiling has probably a 8" flue. Start jn the attic and work your way down. Drape with plastic first to control dust. A 12 year old neighbor boy would be real handy about now.

Looks like a just a widening where the metal chimneys entered. Maybe something to help with the updraft.

But I'm not sure why you're concerned about this. Is there an attic above? That's where I'd start disassembling the chimney. From the top down - brick by brick until I was at room level.

Video of the broken mount to make it easier to see:

https://streamable.com/p3tj0x

But this time, OP, be thorough with it. Start at 150 grit, then do 180, then 220, taking the time to fully sand away all the marks of the previous grit (draw over the area with pencil to make sure you don't miss a spot.