Recent comments in /f/DIY

Diligent_Nature t1_j9hix0t wrote

Never trust a non-contact tester. They can be used for troubleshooting, but for actual wiring work, use a multimeter. Non-contact testers can have false positives and false negatives.

1

nixiebunny t1_j9hgfrx wrote

Rubber gaskets in plumbing joints don't need or want anything else. Only use plumber's putty when setting a drain in a sink etc., only use pipe thread tape on tapered pipe joints. Compression fittings are assembled dry. Plumbers guffaw when they see sealant used where it shouldn't be.

6

randomn49er t1_j9hflgv wrote

Rough in is placement of plumbing before floors and walls are completed. After walls and floors are completed we return to "finish" the plumbing by connecting to the rough in plumbing.

A toilet flange has notches and slots that are used to anchor the t bolts that anchor the toilet. The flange is orientated to be square to the wall. If you want to change it to sit at an angle the plumbing under the floor will need to be moved and a new flange installed so that the notches are at an angle.

Edit: I am saying the same as waderson85 is saying. Just in different terms.

7

waderson85 t1_j9h8y5u wrote

A standard commercial chrome flush valve or "flushometer" for a toilet is designed to be connected to a 1inch diameter water line. Depending on your specific home, you may not have any piping larger than 3/4 inch in diameter anywhere. The pressure drop caused by a commercial flush valve opening in your average house will likely cause the flush valve to perform poorly. In addition, the water line will have to be relocated from the standard 6-8 inches above the floor to roughly 12 inches above the top of the toilet and 4-5 inches off centerline. A water line coming out of a square/flat wall at an angle will look super weird, if the toilet is in a corner, it will be harder to accomplish and probably look worse (in my opinion).

Others have mentioned that at best, the flange will have to be repositioned due to the slots for the bolts that hold the toilet to the flange not being aligned with your desired position. This might require you to cut the existing anchors and spin the outer ring with the slots in it, it also might require complete flange replacement. Worst case, this toilet is in a tight corner and turning the toilet to your desired angle will conflict with existing walls requiring you to break open the floor and/or crawl under the house to relocate the opening further away from adjacent walls.

Should you ever have to move, this will likely need to all be undone.

All that to say this project is likely more trouble than it is worth.

10