Have same issue. Several years ago purchased an iron water filter from Home Depot (water boss)specifically stating iron reduction. Price as $500. It has proven useless .

I'd use 23/32 plywood. With 2×2 supports.

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Just a home-gamer, not a contractor here:

The p-traps i have replaced have not needed putty; they have all been fine with just the slip-on ring seals and screwing them down.

It is good to note: make sure they are on the right way (stupid younger me talking)

I’ve built out all of the closets in every home we’ve owned. I’ve done them all with Melamine boards from Home Depot or Lowe’s. Easy to install (with a little knowledge) and limited finish work required.

People on here are mentioning sagging - if it’s the right thickness for the span and supported correctly, it lasts great.

For the width, I’d get 3/4” thick. If possible, support on the sides and back. The span will be fine if you have it supported along the entire back.

The flange is one issue, the other is water pressure, they require higher pressure, and a water hammer arrestor is also highly recommended. And the pipes still have to come down somewhere. And most flush valves are still connected to the wall

It was a safe as I could make it but that doesn’t mean it was “safe.” Still working on live wires. Actually in that case they weren’t even protected by a breaker, just what’s coming out of the transformer.

I’ve accidentally snipped a live wire but at least in that case it was protected by a breaker. When you’re dealing with actual unprotected circuits… I don’t think the dread feeling ever goes away.

Working on a car is also kind of nerve wracking no matter how many times I’ve done it. I’m putting all of my faith into jack stands and I need to exert a great amount of torque under the car. It’s not as unsafe as it used to be back in the day (scissor jacks used to be known as widow-makers).

So I don’t agree with you. It’s more important to have a healthy fear of possible dangers and still do everything in your power to protect yourself than it is to get over that fear. When I feel comfortable doing something is when I make more mistakes (like when I snipped a live wire).

On a tank type toilet they use the atmospheric pressure from the water in the tank to create the flushing action but a toilet without the tank needs the volume and pressure from a larger pipe to do the same thing. A toilet flush valve is always 1" and sometimes if the pressure is to low it still can have problems flushing. Also the flushvalve needs a copper pipe coming out of the wall that is supported so it cannot move so the fitting to connect it can be soldered on and you don't want it to be able to move around or that will cause leaks where the pipe goes into the bowl.

You know this isn't a great idea.

You know you shouldn't be doing this.

Do you think you're going to get your deposit back?

veneered plywood w/ iron on edge banding.

no, you don't, the breakers more or less press fit...

make sure you are comfortable with what you are doing and it makes sense that it is safe to you...

I should add when I say it is surely cold its not connected to supply anymore was wrong, if there was another point in the circuit that you cannot see and the circuit is connected to supply at that point... this would certainly cause trouble so it is best to verify it is cold before touching it regardless.

the steps are simple enough, but overlooking one of them could be dangerous.

understanding how it is safe is the best.

You could avoid attaching to the ceiling. Either a massive exo frame with minimum of three additional posts (think of a structure for hangman's noose with three legs). Or a raised floor that acted as a torsion box and pole with honey cone core and not attached to the ceiling at all. Or maybe copying a swing set frame. Easy

Ok I think I can manage that. This was very helpful thank you I guess I was thinking I needed to unscrew the black wire from the breaker before I removed it from the cluster

you shouldn't have to get your screw driver in there.

turn the breaker off. that screw, and the small black wire connecting it is now cold.

remove the breaker, test this wire if you still aren't sure its cold. (it is surely cold now, its not connected to supply anymore)

connect the new breaker to wire, (you should be able to do so plenty clear from that big scary black wire)

ensure that the new breaker is off (to minimize/negate arcing) and insert it.

finally turn on the new breaker energizing that black wire again.

if you are unsure how to accomplish these steps safely, call an electrician.

Yes, that. If access is easy, and its not ancient iron or rotted copper, no problem. In other cases, bigger problem. In any case its always possible, just not always easy or cheap. You can certainly do it or pay someone to do it if you want to bad enough.

They just don't starch curbs like they used to.

its really only "scary" the first time, shouldn't really be then.

as with anything potentially dangerous/deadly.

you should understand what you are doing and why you are doing it and how it ensures your safety. if it still seems unsafe, maybe it is and you should consult a pro.

This question is in the context of a general bathroom remodel, but thanks for the advice.

This may be helpful in multiple ways because I currently use a bidet attachment and my concern was how I could continue using it given that tankless toilets look incompatible with mounting the attachment. I already knew about toilets that have integrated bidets, but wrote them off because I feared they would not be appealing to future buyers (I am located in the US). However, if a bidet attachment was never going to work on a tankless toilet, then I would be getting an integrated bidet because I can't go without a bidet.

Forgive me and my zero experience. I watched one manufacturer-produced installation video on youtube and the toilet appeared to have a supply hose coming from the wall like most toilets do. Why would supply plumbing need to be changed?

That's too bad. I would have to find one that doesn't really have corners and you make it sound as if that's the exception to the rule.

Plywood with edge banding or hardwood trim to cover the edge. Could probably get away with 1/2" but better to use something like 3/4" to prevent future sagging

I don't know what qualifies for commercial grade, as the pictures I've seen strongly imply they are built for residential use, but I am certainly talking about a truly tankless design. The flushometer design so often seen in public toilets has long been a dream of mine because of their seemingly superior performance, but that obviously has nothing to do with my motivations for wanting to rotate the toilet.

I have zero experience in home maintenance. Everyone starts somewhere and the top of the list for my situation is several bathroom items. So, could you explain what "rough in" means for this specific situation? I think I understand it from doing a quick google search just now, but the principle behind my original question was to see it is possible to rotate a toilet with the drain pipe as the axis of rotation and still have it function.

It was my hope to not have to redo plumbing, but if necessary and not too bad, I would do it. I assume you mean that the flange would have to come off the piping and then replaced at the same angle as the toilet?