Recent comments in /f/DIY

atmetal OP t1_j9gnmbr wrote

The reason is very sane and normal, but in my experience, redditors tend to go on side tangents that have nothing to do with my question. Ever since yahoo answers shut down, I have been on reddit, treating it in the same way. Quite frankly, I don't know how so many people have so much time to have reddit discussions just for the sake of discussion.

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openminded74 t1_j9glwaa wrote

There is no reason you can't do that but you will need a 1" water supply to flush it. The flange would be easy enough to change either with a repair type flange or anchor bolts going into the floor where the mounting bolts come thru the bowl. One thing to keep in mind is that those types of toilets flush quite loudly so it could a issue for that.

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msdlp t1_j9glmbc wrote

I am not sure if you realize it but the texture on apartments is used to hide a fast and reckless drywall job on a business property. Someone in this thread noted that private homes tend to have flat walls. The private home buyer expects a high quality drywall job without texture. The business owner buying/building an apartment complex doesn't give a fuck if the wall is textured as long as it looks ok. You will have a hard time finding an apartment without texture for this reason. I bought a home in Colorado and the ceilings were popcorn texture. I took a putty knife and scraped it all off, only to notice that all the irregularities not stood out where they were not visible under the popcorn texture. I would highly recommend that you just let it go until you buy your own home which will probably have flat walls anyway. Do what you feel. Make yourself happy if you can.

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wildcarde815 t1_j9gexyq wrote

3/4" interior grade ply w/ a poplar 1x2 edge band. All of that should take paint really well without too much fuss. Poly clear coat should look nice too. If you were planning to store like... soaps or such, make sure you seal the surfaces well beforehand.

You could go to half inch ply but you'll need your span between supports to be narrower.

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PlatypusTrapper t1_j9gehj7 wrote

I swapped a breaker on a panel that didn’t have a main breaker once so I had to do it live.

My heart-rate at least doubled while I was doing it.

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Camarofeind OP t1_j9gc448 wrote

I think there is some miscommunication on my part . I am just building a gravel foundation that will be 12x16instead of a slab. The shed will then be built in the gravel area. The shed I am planning on building will be 10x12. So really I wanted to see if I should even worry about removing the mulch or just place the gravel on top. As for the 2 8 fr post that will be just used more as boarder for the gravel area in my yard .

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Shopshack t1_j9gbukp wrote

A few comments: Check and see if you need a permit for that size. That is over the size limit for a no permit accessory building in most jurisdictions.

No need for any 16 foot boards, just run your joist in the 12 foot direction.

If I was spending the money to build a shed with the cost of materials this these days, I would have the joists sitting on doubled up two by tens, running the 16 foot length. Those would be sitting on pier blocks dug into the ground. If you angle the ends, you would be able to drag the shed in the future, or jack it up and get it onto a trailer to sell it, or move it.

There are lots of plans for free available on the Internet on how to build a shed that will answer many of the questions you have. Also, since I haven’t seen it mentioned, you should have plastic sheeting below the foundation to keep moisture from rising up and rotting out your framing. I live in the Pacific Northwest, and would use pressure-treated wood for my foundation.

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SnakeJG t1_j9g5kh4 wrote

That's a pretty small span, especially if you are supporting it on three sides or are fixing it to the side supports, basically half, 5/8 or 3/4 inch anything (not mdf) will do. Assuming 1.5 inch wide supports, that knocks your span down to 25".

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