I don’t understand the problem? Are you worried that the wire you are unscrewing is still powered cause you can’t verify with the voltage tester?

Common boards are fine for this.

You will have to rotate the flange so the bolts line up how you want. That either means a new flange or a new repair ring that will fit the current flange. You may also have to use a longer water line since it probably won't be lined up straight anymore.

The other comments about plumbing code are valid, but if it's your house you can pretty much do what you want. Just be prepared to put it back if you sell the house, or possibly take some flack regarding the inspections and other potential hassles. It's also possible that if there is a flood/leak or something and your insurance adjuster deems that it was "installed wrong" you could be looking at denial of coverage I guess.

These about an inch between the supply wire and the screws to the breaker. In the past the supply wires came in through the top of box and in this they come up from the bottomhttps://imgur.com/a/efP2ZaM

I just did a pantry with 3/4 inch melamine, but for clothes, go for cedar. It will smell nice and is a natural bug deterrent. Totally worth the extra cost.

No, it’s Patrick

Can you get to the screws to loosen the wires with the supply wires there, or do the wires complete block access? I would just do it like you have in the past.

I would suggest going with radiata ply over sanded. Better finish and cheaper locally at home depot, with the cost being that usually 1 side is better than the other. It's my go to since the COVID price increases.

Balsa

Also see how good the flooring was laid around the flange. I once switched a toilet to one with a slightly smaller form-factor and suddenly had un-grouted tile exposed…don’t think this would be that common but whoever laid the tile maybe ran out of grout or got lazy but didn’t bother grouting what was covered by the original toilet footprint.

Jesus Christ, Marie! They mineral!

I just chalk up the inexplicable to sexual preference to clear the cognitive dissonance and move on

Cedar

B/C sanded plywood.

Honestly as a hobbyist who has spent hundreds of hours working on custom pieces and hundreds of hours working on my own home I recommend an affordable plywood in a pine or poplar skin, and then use poplar as a finish/ trim. Poplar is still a lighter material very affordable from most mills that arent mega stores like lowes or hd. It sands well, has zero sap, minimal knots, and paints or stains really well. The plywood even a cheaper variety will hold almost any amount of weight you put on it as long as you tie the structure into your studs.

Clear (no knots) southern yellow pine if it is sold in your part of the country. Paints well, very stiff, fairly hard

Yeah I used this for mine. My pantry is probably a little wider than yours and I ended up using 3/4" ply. Perhaps it was a little overkill but it does not sag when supported from three sides.

If you can get 1x2 slats of Cedar and make shelves out of that it will smell beautiful.

Normally I would but I have so many projects going on right now, I have to put a new engine in my boat before the summer, I have some Adirondack chairs I need to build, I have a bunch of half finished birdhouses that I need to complete before spring, plus I work 40/50 hours a week on top of that so if it saves me an afternoon or two of tinkering around with a design I’ve never built before I’ll take it!

We have lath and plaster construction (house built in 1941), and we have used this stud finder with success. It does a static position calibration step to determine depth of the wall before you scan. Haven’t torn in to any walls, but I don’t think we have a wire mesh back to the plaster, which may account for our success.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-Whole-Stud-Finder-ESF5002/319999234

My friend I lived with had a similar thing, but with a tub placed about a foot in front of the toilet. I messed up my leg and had a full isolation brace while staying there. I never knew taking a shit could be so difficult. I had to sit at a 45 degree angle, which took about a minute to achieve.

Half inch thick plywood, edged with 1x1 or 1x2 oak supports. Never moves. I know some pantry shelves like this that are almost 30 years old and have never sagged. Filled with canned goods for most of that time.

You could make your own using a parallelogram design, but the manufactured one is a lot easier. Tool boxes and tackle boxes use them.

Thanks for the detailed response, I was looking at a system like this and it seems like it would fit the bill. A three filter system would probably look impressive enough to my wife that she wouldn't bug me about it too much, lol.

I’d advise against that. Setting aside the major damage to your property, those poles are extremely dangerous. My ex had a roommate with one of those and some girl fell off it at a house party and got permanent brain damage. Her family sued my ex’s roommate and won