3/4" birch. It's strong and finishes well. Not crazy expensive either

Use the Sagulator

Better angle for the "security" camera.

Thanks, I will definitely do that! There’s no need to sound so happy about my disappointment though 😳😅

A tankless toilet? Like a flushometer? You'd have to realign the closet flange and run a new rough in for the supply. It may be worth it if you really need that angle....

Was your closet hanging rod/rack attaching to the wall with nothing but drywall anchors? Is there a stud you can re-hang it to? If not, it’s going to rip out again.

Since it sounds like you’re already willing to take this further than most people, you could cut out a larger horizontal rectangle in the drywall, and fit 2x4 or plywood flush between the vertical studs. This will be your new blocking to mount stuff to. Then drywall over the new, big rectangular hole (harder than patching a 1/2” hole but not as hard as it seems).

Eyyy, are we roommates?!

Opened a few walls in my 1960s house to find interior door headers supported by the 1x pine doorjambs, just toenailed into the king studs, no jacks. My hall closet only opens halfway and my bedroom door won't close, so I'm guessing they're all like that. They're not load bearing walls, so who cares, right? /s

Replaced the wax ring in my basement bathroom. Flange is rotated 90° (so bolts feed through the holes, not the t-slots) and welded into the cast-iron drain. Holes are only accessible from underneath, through the floor.

I love my house. I do. But, damn.

It depends on what and how much you are going to put on them. A thicker hardwood will hold a a ton. Melamine will sag. And probably not an issue, but if the melamine or plywood get wet that can cause other issues.

I would use 5/4 Poplar. Any decent lumber supplier can make the shelves in the size you need. The cost would should be comparable to high quality ply. And less labor. Google "hardwood supplier" to find one near you.

No worries about finishing the edges, plus Poplar takes paint great.

Space to store the torsos. The master closet is getting full.

stud location

Tankless implying commercial grade with a flush valve? Or tankless implying a disconnected, in wall tank? Former plumbing engineer and currently on the contracting side so I’m very intrigued by this question.

So glad I'm not a landlord.

Do not do this.

If its lath and lime I would even venture to advise against messing about with it. Not all contractors work with it and ones that do charge extra, your landlord or management company can and will deduct that price out of your deposit if they find out.

Safety? By rotating the toilet a bit, OP can now see out the door? I've seen a lot of movies where the guy gets shot while sitting on the toilet.

I removed my ballasts and put hybrids in, they work amazingly (can use on electric ballast or direct wire, not magnetic).

Direct power led tubes will be fine since you cut the ballasts out already.

Spend the extra on plywood. It’s lighter, and MDF shelves tend to sag over time, especially in humid climates.

People have mentioned the flange being a specific direction in the floor.

Depending on your reasons, there may be other solutions for you. If you don’t want to share, you can share reasons like “I need additional clearance around the toilet” or “it would give me more privacy” or “toilet position causes injuries or blocks pathway”

Toilet is in a weird corner and there is either a cabinet or bit of wall sticking out in front of it. OP has long legs. He's tired of sitting off center in the seat just for his knees to have clearance.

Space for a wheelchair access?

Otherwise just leave it because it’s personal and not a thing we need to know.

Depends on your skill level and budget. Melamine is great for shelves, though the size you mention may require good supports to prevent long term drooping. But it looks nice and there are whole assembly methods for it. Plywood is a good option for larger shelves. Get sanded interior plywood, not exterior grade. Takes more time to finish, normally you'd want to glue on a piece of hardwood to the edge, or use edge banding, to hide the layered edge. I just did a whole closet with 3/4 maple plywood that I stained white and then put a finish over. The most expensive option is solid wood boards. Getting something that comes 17"+wide will be really expensive. Likely you'll need to buy narrower and glue up the larger panels. Pine boards are fine, just spend the time finding clean straight boards. Hardwood boards are honestly overkill for shelves and will be your most expensive option.

You have to also take note of the rough in position and the true dimensions of the toilet. I've seen regular toilets placed at an angle by using a 10" toilet on a 12" rough in. Likewise, if you had a 14* rough in, you probably could get away with any 12" toilet. That should open up more options for you.

With that short of a span anything from 3/4" mdf and stronger will work fine.

The flange will be roughed in for the toilet to sit perpendicular. If you want to place the toilet on an angle the rough in will need to be changed.

Probably to make AC Slatering easier.