Now that you can’t go through with this idea, save the money you would have spent on it for a down payment on your own home 😉

I just don't have the mental capacity or endurance for that right now.

Best way to find a stud or joint behind lathe is a strong neodymium magnet. One scavenged from an old hard drive works well as they have a strong pull at the edge, allowing you to be more precise in locating the nails

Make a pencil mark where ever it sticks in the area you want to mount something, and the stud/joist will be indicated by a straight row of marks while any painted over or broken off nail in the gaps will be an outlier.

Anybody care to theorize the “reasons”?

Excellent. I’m going to buy some direct wire and see if they work. Thanks for your help

Thank you. I’ll grab some direct wire bulbs and try them. Appreciate your help

Hi! I’m still using the plug and plays. Apparently that is the issue. I’m going to go pick up some direct wire and try them. Thanks for your help. I’ll update later when I install the new bulbs

Thank you for all of your help. I’ve already removed the ballast, so I will be going to purchase some direct wire led tubes today. I’ll update when I try them

Thank you. I’ll be going to buy some direct wire LEDs later today. Appreciate your help

Unless you are redoing the plumbing, the toilet flange may not be oriented correctly for your vision and could require changing.

Or 24” for older buildings.

Haha. Good point

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Try 24”.

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Yep. My stud finder was just an expensive beeping machine. Magnets'll get ya done. Also there's always a stud on one side of an outlet to mount it so those are good areas to start.

• Your question does not include the research you've done to find an answer yourself, or why that research didn't answer your question.

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• Please search Google and /r/DIY to see if your question has been asked before. Check owners manuals, tech support forums or contact the manufacturer.

• Have you already done some basic research and are still stuck?

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Switches and outlet boxes are mounted to studs. You should be able to go 16” once you find it from there.

If you measured from a corner you may want to go out 14.5-15”, this account ls for drywall width and width of half a stud.

Try at 24 inches. Some areas have more relaxed building codes and require only 24 in. between studs.

You may be right, but don't forget the the 2x's are probably true 2x4's, which will affect how he finds 16 on ¢.

Using the small hole that missed the stud, unbend a wire hanger and fish it in the hole sideways until you hit a stud. Mark the hanger and pull it out and measure that distance on the face of the wall. Repeat in opposite direction to find adjacent stud. Measure in between two to find the stud spacing down the wall. Some homes were built with balloon framing which is generally 24" spacing rather than the now typical 16".

This. As an electrician, I use my magnetic level to find studs all the time. Works great as long as the magnet is strong, like a rare earth magnet

You sure there are wood studs back there? I had this issue in my basement. Kept drilling holes, kept going right through. Found out I had steel studs. Shaped like a C and very thin so a bit goes through without much resistance. Apartment building could definitely have steel studs.

Wait 10 years. Plaster delaminates.

Plaster and lath walls, Google it