Recent comments in /f/DIY

dickbaggery t1_j9eg8qm wrote

Mmm, previous owners. I've seen that move before. It's way easier than removing the plaster and fudging with misaligned studs, but they could've at least drilled some holes and located them. Some people just think wood is wood I guess. One of the first fixes in my house was to put a new light fixture in the kitchen and replace 3/4 of the kitchen ceiling because one of the previous owners thought it okay to mount a big metal light can to lath. And by "mount" I mean cut a hole and just rest it on the lath from above. Half the ceiling was sagging and threatening to cave as a result.

4

MrMinigrow t1_j9efktl wrote

I've found a very informative site with lots of pictures which have made it very obvious to my little ADHD brain which measurements I need. Thanks to those who replied here, what a helpful sub! Moving house and will be needing more advise I'm sure so will stick around :)

1

MrMinigrow t1_j9edun3 wrote

I tried to upload but it was removed. After the putty and glass was removed there is a flat area where the glass rests. The inside of the rim that the glass is placed on measures 380 x 425 mm. That's the very smallest measurement of the window, the most inside rim and presumably what the window should be pressed against

1

jameath t1_j9ednyu wrote

This is in the UK, there are guidelines for how wires cross a wall to outlets, over here you can run wires around the “boarders” of a wall, I think you have 150mm to play with from any corner, and then wires crossing out of that border over to an outlet have to come in at 90 degrees, so for any outlet there could be wires going directly up, down, left or right In the wall behind the outlet.

You could take the faceplate off the outlet and have a look what direction the wires are going, but that doesn’t really guarantee anything. Really there’s no easy compromise, you either guess and go slowly, or invest in a tool that that can tell you what’s in the wall

1

Crotchless_Panties t1_j9ed3nh wrote

Just get a demo-saw and start on one end of the wall, about titty-height and just go ripping nuts, all the way across the room... Then repeat at about head height, then do two vertical cuts on each end.

Now then grab your claw hammer and pull the cut sections off... You can then see the studs, and even measure the distance between each one! 😁

0

alabasterwilliams t1_j9ecz8h wrote

Typically speaking, the glass sits just shy of flush inside the casing, to allow for expansion of the wood. The “formula” allows for measuring face to face inside the frame, and then compensating for any expansion.

The glass will be held in place with wood straps that run along both faces of the pane, and then putty or silicone.

1

MrMinigrow t1_j9ecpe7 wrote

I'm sorry to sound dense, but I'm not quite sure what you mean? Once I removed the glass and old putty there are no slots for the glass to sit in. It's just a bare frame now, there are no little channels that the glass sits in. Do you mean that there are little slots in the frame itself for the glass to fit into?

1

chromohabilus t1_j9ec92w wrote

I restore historic windows and cut glass every day. You need to provide a little more info. Usually the glass fits in a rabbet in the wood sash, so there is about 1/4” wide flat channel for your glass to rest on. Your advice to measure and subtract 1/16 - 1/8 is right but I feel like you’re not quite getting it.

1

cheek_splitter t1_j9ec25q wrote

What finder did you get? I got one decently rated thing on Amazon, and never did find anything with it. Broke it in a rage rather than even bother returning it.

Bought a cheap Hart finder from Wally World, and that thing is worth its weight in gold.

Also, if you have old plaster walls, good luck. I've never had any luck with those in my last house, and ended up just drilling to figure out the OCs.

1