Level 5 means the entire wall is skimmed… your post makes it seem like you only have a few holes from anchors… you can’t really level 5 that lol. Got any pics for reference?

I agree with tapping the hole. Just need to make sure op mark the tap at the same length as the screw with some tape. Use cutting oil and clean threads before inserting screw.

You cannot assume there is a stud 16" from a corner. If the wall length is not an exact multiple of 16" then necessarily there will be a corner where the stud is at some other distance. But if you take a small nail and try at every inch then you will find a stud somewhere along that length. Then you can measure 16" from that one and expect to find the next one. That is, unless there is a door or a large window along the way, in which case distances may have had to be adjusted there as well.

Or 12

Take an outlet or switch cover off and look between the drywall and the top of the box to see where the stud is (left or right). That will give you an idea where one is and then you can go from there. Remember that they’re 16” on center and they’re 1 1/2” wide, so you could only be missing the stud by a little bit.

Studfinders are of various quality, and hard to troubleshoot.

But a strong magnet should catch on anything ferrous, do you have any you can slide on the wall to find a screw head?

18" stud placements? Irregular stud placements?

I have a garage where the drywall isn't attached directly to the studs at all. I ended up having to cut lines across the drywall to find the studs to hang things from (ended up doing it so that the things covered up the lines I had to cut, so it worked out for me, not sure how it would go for you)

Have you tried using one of those magnet stud finders like this? It finds a nail in the stud and sticks to it

Might want to try 24 if 16 and 32 aren't working.

Yep, I use a skimming blade instead of a squeegee and it works well (haven't tried the squeegee approach, yet). Would be interested if you have tried a skimming blade and then moved to the squeegee.

The one I use is the same as this one: https://www.amazon.com/Fafeicy-40x14-5x4-5cm-Smoothing-Stainless-Plastering/dp/B09NSBN3LS

I tend to use pancake batter consistency (probably the same as your yogurt consistency) with the goal of once the coat gets thin enough, it resists the skim blade more so it essentially auto-levels.

Used this stuff to prime to tile over my existing backsplash and tile over existing bathroom tile. Everything held up for the couple of years I stayed in that place after.

But also don't leave it loose. My friend melted the terminal block on his oven because of a loose connection.

Nothing adheres well to the glazing on a tile. Take a grinder to score the glazing

The hole is already partially threaded. Tapping it further would be super easy and almost fool-proof

This level of novice has no business trying to tap this hole as the first option fam

glad you got it working. my first thought was it might be a return that someone crossthreaded or stripped.

None yet, waiting for work to slow down. But I'm thinking the harbor freight Jupiter one for 170. 2000 running and 4000 surge works probably handle a table saw. I'm debating also with making a cart to move it or stationary in the back seat of the truck.

Most door bell wiring is very low voltage (picture speaker wire or coxial cable). As long as you’re not running 110v through it (some do and those are not compatible with ring doorbells) you’re fine. You can use pretty much anything.

https://www.bobvila.com/articles/can-you-tile-over-tile/

https://youtu.be/XRRYDEa-pDM

This channel on YouTube has alot of videos on home improvement and actually covered this exact subject. Think he has a newer video on it as well.

You could easily strip the soft brass by using too much torque.

Thanks all! After also consulting with my father in law I tried a single washer to see if I could get it tight that way and it’s worked! Any electricians feel free to let me know if that was a bad idea but oven is functional and seems to be operating fine. I didn’t want to mess with the hole if I could try a simpler way first.

Whatever solution you use, don't over tighten the screw. As an ex service tech, I see that people tend to over tighten and strip screws.

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Don't fuck with the screw. I suggested he tap the hole a little deeper, but you do it with a tap, not by trying to push that screw in there. He can get a tap set for like $10.