Zoom in on that bad hole. Then zoom in on one of the good ones.

Do the good ones look like they are threaded in deeper than the bad hole?

Are you sure there is nothing in the bad hole? Could be packing material.

Does the screw look normal (fully threaded and not mangled up)?

Is this screw longer than the other screws?

I would either cut the length of the screw or tap the hole a little further in. Its gonna be a standard metric size. You can measure it with a pair of calipers. You can cut the screw down a little too as long as you get between 6 and 8 full rotations. A set of taps could be purchased for like $10 to 20 at Harbor Freight.

> Hot mud hole

This falls into my "I don't know what this is, but there's no way I'm Googling it" catagory.

Not so. Inverters switch approximately 20,000 times a second. The on / off times are selected to generate a 60Hz sine wave. So switching it high and low intermittently will have no discernable effect on your inverter.

But to answer your question, oddly enough there is a device that can do this. They are used in hotel and dorm rooms. The device is connected to the microwave and refrigerator. It is designed to shut off the refrigerator when you turn the microwave on. This limits the power from the building.

If you plug a 1000W space heater into the refrigerator and your other load to the microwave input you will get what you asked for. I don't recommend this but it answers your querie.

Yeah, I'm using them already. They help me do a bunch of things but have their limitations unfortunately

I already use them for a bunch of stuff, they're great, but admittedly have their limits

Try using a slightly bigger screw - you could try a metric one which are slightly bigger than SI sizes

Buy a tap set and tap it.

Alternatively, the black plastic piece that your wires are attached to can probably be removed and a replacement sourced for.

Try using a hex nut driver. You will be able to get better torque on the screw. Add a little oil to the screw and when the screw stops moving, back it out a half turn, then tighten it again. Continue backing out and retightening as long as each time that you retighten, it advances a little further.

Take that screw to the hardware store (preferably a real old-school one, not HD or Lowe's) and tell them you need a self-tapping screw one size larger.

Yes they are

NEH either, but that seems like it would be an obvious solution. There is no particular need for it to be on a different screw except for convenience.

Another solution is just to use a shorter screw.

Are all the screws the same color?

No electrician here but perhaps just attach it to the other screw along with the existing two wires.

hiring a professional is the only real answer.

Which inverter/charger did you end up picking?

I've used the roller plus squeegee and it came out nicely for easy sanding. Getting the right consistency of water to compound is key though, it needs to be close to the consistency of yogurt. I also wet sand to eliminate dust.

About a half mile from a Home Depot. Moen makes kitchen faucets for like $60.

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Yep, burn it down, start from scratch

I'd cut a piece of 3/4 inch plywood to the outside dimensions of the rails and notch out the four corners for the steel pillars. Clamp it in place and check for level, etc. Also put your printer there and check you have enough room to open the lid and feed it paper etc. Be happy with the position before you move on.

Then with a small bit, drill from the sides a hole through the pillars and into the wood. You're only trying to make registration marks with this first pass, but do it carefully so everything lines up. Get four suitably sized bolts (they need to be long enough to go through the metal pillar and still have an inch or so for the plywood), and take one to the hardware store. You need a drill bit which is the inside diameter of the threads, a drill bit which is the outside diameter of the threads, and a tap which matches the threads.

Drill the pillars out to the large size and the plywood to the smaller size. Tap the plywood with an electric drill on it's lowest setting. Back the drill up every turn or so to break the chip. Be careful not to go deeper than the hole you drilled or you'll wreck your threads.

If you don't want to start a collection of expensive taps and want to buy the most useful tap size, I recommend 1/4-20.

Now you can just assemble with the bolts. Should hold 150 pounds or so, depending on how thick those steel legs are.

I would suggest simply buying a larger generator.

For instance, you didn't mention what size of genny you are thinking about getting, but you do mention a peak wattage of +/-1000W, so, if you use a 2500W genny, you are going to use less than 1/2 of it's capacity.

cheap enough? damn where do you live?

Thank you! Will look into this!

Have you tried using lifting straps? They loop over your wrist and wrap around the bar, you just have to press the strap against the bar in order to create enough friction to stop or from unraveling. The are used for pulling exercises only, but might be a cheap way to get you doing some of those movements.

I used a us based company called Vasari plaster. marmorino is the fine grade which I like the best and I used mainly plastic trowels to produce a flat matte look. For heavily textured walls I did a coat of the mediaum grade and followed up with the fine.

It takes a long time but I dig the look so much that I don’t care. I will eventually have most of my house plastered.