There is lots of advice here, but I would highly suggest that you speak to a physical therapist, or maybe an occupational therapist before potentially hurting yourself.

Cool, are there Youtube videos of this? What would I put in?

I actually clicked because I completely feel you. It's not nothing. You're spending how much time in there and textured walls and ceilings and weird light fixtures really do have a bizarre energy I don't like either. "Funky fabric," isn't going to do it, that's a totally different vibe. I like where your head's at. It's actually pretty labor intensive to sand down walls/ceiling, but def worth checking into and seeing if the owner would be down. What is even the point of popcorn ceilings? Just laziness? Textured walls? Because painting a board flat is hard? I don't understand. I do think maybe stretch like raw hide and wooden boards with maybe barn door slats on them could cover them up? Hmmmmmmm....

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I've started to use drywall sealer on the sanded mud before I hit it with primer and it seems to help.

If you don't want to fix it, this is more handyman territory than plumber territory. Shouldn't be that expensive. However, your best bet is to at least attempt it. Worse case scenario, you can't fix it and have to buy a new faucet.

Usually when I'm attempting a DIY, I figure out make and model then do a search for it, like 'x faucet leaking at handle' then see what comes up on YouTube. Lots of good info on the major brands out there. Also if this is a higher end faucet, they are built to be repairable. The cheap $40 ones you get at the big box stores you can easily replace the gasket if it doesn't stop dripping when you turn it off, but something like the handle leaking might be a toss it and replace scenario.

I learned to replace my first washer on a faucet in my kitchen when my husband was too busy and my landlord's handyman kept blowing me off. The bedroom was off the kitchen so it was making me nuts. Took me about five minutes once I found a YouTube, watched the video, found the washers at the hardware store and a screwdriver to remove the screw. You can probably do this if you have any amount of patience. Oh and the will to clean the cabinet out, but you'd have to do that for a handyman anyway. Good luck!

Definitely make sure you warm the can up sufficiently and shake very well. The texture won't get fine without those two steps. Texture is sadly difficult to match... Good luck.

No because spending time and money on a rental vesus owned property gets you an increase in value, whereas doing something to a rental just costs you money.

Love your attitude sir

You know the best way to get DIY skills? Yeah, that's right, DIY. Make sure you can turn the water off under the sink, remove it and take it to a hardware store to find the right fit. You may need a "basin wrench" but other than that won't need any specialty tools.

Biggest issue is that the sanded compound will have a different texture than the drywall and the simplest solution is spray texture. Just make sure you practice applying the spray texture outside on a piece of cardboard to get the technique down because you can't really adjust it once it's on. And of course make sure you use the exact same paint/sheen as the original. If you are guessing on the paint you might as well paint the whole wall.

I would go ahead and contact the people you see with similar adaptive solutions you're interested in and ask how they got theirs made!

1. Don't do it. Absolutely not necessary in an unseen area like a closet with things stored in it

2. https://youtu.be/jaHqULjGxLE Vancouver Carpenter

3. If you want other youtube drywall gurus, look for Home Renovision and That Kilted Guy

you need certain tools, and if you're not handy at all, it could be a real pain

I don't know why you are messing around with these half measures, you need to tear the whole house down and rebuild it from scratch.

Or just get some large joint filler, and fill and sand the holes. Paint when you are done.

Kind of a modern take on lath and plaster walls.

Yes, and you can thin it a bit to adjust if needed,.

I’ve gotten several items for working out from Active Hands for myself; perhaps they have something that would work for you as well.

https://www.activehands.com/

You can sand over the holes, but I would use the back of the putty knife to sink in the hole first. For the size of these holes, it will be quite often be enough.

Then, simply apply mud over the holes, they are not big enough to need tape, especially if you want to go OCD-level... using tape will result in needing to mud a large area to blend in the repair. Lots of unecessary work!

You could wet sand (with a wet sponge) instead of sanding, it will give you a smooth surface akin to drywall, meaning there won't be any texture difference (or nearly any) once paint.

you ever drywalled before?

If not, not to judge, but theres zero chance youre gonna skim coat the entire wall and get a lvl 5 finish (thats what a lvl 5 finish is).

anything less is not level 5, because that means your just feathering out the thickness introduced by the tape, which is then by definition, not a dead flat wall

Plus, zero chance your wall was lvl 5 to begin with, so you'll need to "improve" that too.

Id grab a 4" knife and some spackle, and smear it on the hole. Id sand it smooth, and repeat that 2-3 more times. by not using tape, you wont be building any thickness on the wall that requires much feathering. A .5" hole doesnt need tape anyway.

If youre not satisfied with the result, you can still slap some tape on there and proceed to attempt a skim coat if you want.

JFC. I'd just replace the drywall before doing all of that.

This is how I'd do it, but I probably wouldn't even roll the texture over the whole wall just because that it's a closet...and I also have bad ocd lol. The way OP listed to do it, they should honestly try out auto body work like I used to do. It's satisfying to the ocd to have a 8 hour dent in a quarter panel come out looking like a fresh piece of stamped steel after primer and wet sand.

Other poster is right that you would save time just working 2-3 overtime hours but I would very much encourage you to try fixing it. As long as shut-off valves are easily accessible and everything else works, it will probably take a small Allen wrench(hex) a Phillips and/or flathead screwdriver, and a common pair of pliers, though adjustable pliers would be better.

This is why I hate drywall texture. Just keep it smooth and you can always blend in a repair.

Wow, how have I never heard of mixing joint compound with water and rolling the entire wall? Sounds like a nifty technique.