Probably should do that. I'm very careful in a sense that I only do exercises that I feel like I'm doing the right way, because not doing so can obviously lead to some unfortunate consequences

Took your advice and searched for a bit... Some really creative solutions out there. What's interesting is a lot of these seem to be custom made... I wonder where they get them

Are you talking about leaking from the faucet or from the handle? If it's from the faucet, it might be a spring inside the valve body that helps seal the water that is no good. You can just take apart the handle and replace the spring and seal. BTW, alot of these faucets are lifetime warranties. You can call the manufacturer and they will send you parts for free. You don't need a receipt for the faucet.

If you take it apart (and you probably can) you will probably find one of two things.

1. It has a plastic interior part that is rubbed down so it doesn't work like it should, and you can't replace that part so you'll have to buy a new one.

2. You have hard water, lime scale buildup may be blocking part of the mechanism. If this is the case you could soak the entire thing in a solution to remove the lime scale.

Both options will usually take up enough time that working an extra few hours at work (if you have that option) and then replacing the faucet is cheaper.

Replace the entire thing, they’re cheap enough that it’s not worth trying the repair. It’s also not a hard thing to replace so I don’t think you’d need to hire a plumber if you’re comfortable using a crescent wrench. You can easily find a guide on YouTube, the hardest part will be emptying out the cabinet beneath to get access,

It's very difficult to overheat an LED in an enclosed fixture. Typically the smallest fixture you're going to find would be designed with a 20-40 watt incandescent in mind. That is a lot of LED power! An ungodly powerful domestic floodlight is around 60 watts of LED.

Small LEDs, the kind which would fit in a very low-power restrictive fixture, would be running at less than five watts.

Id be happy to if it was a closet, it’s the the corner of a bedroom wall with no good way to hide a hole without drywall and paint.

I’ve found that you have to feather / blend the homax can texture a good ways out into the wall to hide patches. In my experience it helps to soak the can in warm (not hot!) water before use to get a finer spray pattern, ymmv. Usually that + a quick knock-down w/ a drywall knife or a quick sand after, and I’ve been able to decently match the “orange peel” of our 1930s plaster doing repairs or even adding new drywall walls and wanting them to appear original.

Oh yeah, should have updated I’ve had the water off and taken apart the valve, mapp gassed it (even though Mapp gas isn’t what it used to be) and laid heavy foil around the toilet and wall so I could really get it hot.

Pretty sure its not soldered in any way I’ve ever seen (I’ve replaced a water heater and pump tank that both needed cutting and sweating to install).

If you haven’t already done it, I’d suggest working with a physical therapist who specializes in sports rehab. They might be able to recommend good adaptations that are customized for you. When I have had injuries in the past — including a broken wrist that caused me similar temporary limitations — my therapist was able to point out ways I was compensating that were leading to stress in other joints. You’ll want to make sure that you find a solution that doesn’t end up making you more prone to injury. (My trainer hates wrist straps because so many people use them to lift weights that are too heavy for them overall and end up hurting themselves - although in your case it seems like a pretty useful tool for pull exercises.)

There was a bulb in a fixture toward the rear of the space, with a pull string.

That was cool, thanks.

You can go old school and use a brush. With enough practice you might be able to match the splatter size https://youtu.be/iOzpbqqJeVE

Also, the water based texture sprays are junk. If you're going to use that, I'd recommend using the oil based type (stinky, but way better quality). Warm up the can in a bucket of warm water if you're not getting fine enough splatter. The good thing about oil based is that it dried in like 10 minutes, so you can sand it off and go again.

Do those give you the sort of small texture like in my first picture?

I don't mind if it's not perfect, I just want to get it in shape for selling.

I think you should care about moisture behind the plywood. I wouldnt recommend such a solution in the first place because of the cost and how difficult it is. You could call the local painter and ask him for a solution? Good luck

I've used texture paint with a texture roller (looks almost like large Velcro) with somewhat OK results. Not gonna be perfect no matter what you do.

Can take the opportunity to move outlets to where you want/ add sconces/ cut into drywall like crazy and make edits and then just respray the whole thing.

That really sounds like it would turn into spraying all 4 walls so they all match... nightmare.

Honestly, it will always look like a patch until you respray the whole wall.

Thank you, I'll still try to find that described place!

I don't live in the house anymore and left the fridge there but it just seemed like the best solution at the time. There was basically some play with the face of the freezer door and I shimmed it with some stuff I had laying around

Hmm, I'm trying to picture the position but it's a bit difficult (mainly because I don't master all the specific words in english) but I'll try to check on the internet ñ.

If I can't find anything, could you send a picture of where you put it ?(if it doesn't make you uncomfortable)

So like where the face attaches to the track thing. Inside the bracket or whatever I found a spot to shove some trash to even out the positioning because adjusting the screws didn't seem to be working and this made the face even with the fridge. On the same fridge I remember the swinging door wouldn't close right either so I had to adjust the metal hinge it sits on with a hammer. What is funny is I've never had this kind of problem until I bought a more expensive stainless steel fridge.

Under the lower part, like door part of the fridge or ground-level? Thank you for your answer!

I had this problem once with a freezer door and the fix for me was to shove hard plastic trash under the lower part to even it out and then it worked flawlessly