Recent comments in /f/DIY

nill0c OP t1_j939wm7 wrote

That would work if there was an 11/16 compression fitting out there. The problem is that the only part of the exposed pipe that's 5/8 (1/2 inch) is mostly stuck in the valve.

I think my new solution might be cutting it off as far from the wall as possible, then I'm pretty sure the remaining pipe will slip fit over 1/2 copper. So I can then sweat in a regular copper pipe (which I'm pretty sure how it's attached inside the wall), and attach a standard valve to the new 1/2 pipe.

It's a bit risky because I don't know the ID of the pipe I'm cutting, but it feels really thin (and already dented easily when I was monkeying around early on).

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SamBrico246 t1_j9315g8 wrote

What's the goal? To make clay that works as a match striker?

The red phosphorous is critical, it's what makes it all work. It bridges the gap between how much heat you have rubbing wood on powdered glass, and what it takes to light the fuel on the match head.

I'm pretty sure red phosphorous is not straight forward to purchase. And even if you could, coating clay in it would be a hazard.

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c3prd2bb8 t1_j92sz26 wrote

On inside corners, I've used tape. On outside corners, I've used a metal corner bead with tape flanges (I think that's the term). It's worked for me, but I'm no professional.

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Tolenkanor t1_j92hvq1 wrote

I'm guessing it's easier to strip out the entire corner. Scrape off as much loose stuff and old mud as you can, then retape. I use paper tape but you could look into "drywall inside corner bead" for alternatives. I also have a corner trowel which does a great job, but the expense and learning curve have me giving only a qualified recommendation for that.

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Full-Cat5118 t1_j92fydr wrote

Be careful. When I messed with a few inches in 2 spots where the tape was pulling away in a corner, removing the tape pulled more away. I ended up having to redo 1/2 of the corner.

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