Can you just cut it off with a compact pipe cutter, and replace it with a compression valve?

see this thread

Don’t you generally use a metal mesh corner bead for corners, not tape?

Unless you replace the tape you'll likely see the repairs. IMO replacing the tape is hard (I suck at mudding). I think it's a balance between effort and how much it bugs you.

I was hoping that too, and got a replacement valve already, but heating the old valve isn’t melting anything and not budging.

Is it possible it’s a press fit like https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-1-2-in-Sweat-Inlet-x-3-8-in-Compression-Outlet-Multi-Turn-Angle-Valve-with-5-in-Extension-Tube-Bell-Flange-CS40BX-C1/202047063 ?

Yeah it would mean cutting out an access hole in the bedroom behind it.

I heated the hell out of it and it didn’t budge. Im thinking it’s like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-1-2-in-Sweat-Inlet-x-3-8-in-Compression-Outlet-Multi-Turn-Angle-Valve-with-5-in-Extension-Tube-Bell-Flange-CS40BX-C1/202047063

I’m not sure why anyone in their right minds would install something like that though. It’s impossible to service, and makes replacement a mess.

The walls of the chrome pipe are super thin too.

That was my thought when I looked at it

[deleted]

I mean, on PTL I’ve always heard “either use it the day you get it, or dry it for 3-6 months.” Either approach is fine. Using wet wood, yeah it’ll shrink a bit, but it’ll all shrink about the same amount.

The warping and buckling I don’t think is related to it being wet with treatment— drying would only make the wood shrink up a bit and maybe show some splits and cracks.

Warping and twisting is likely due to the generally poor grade of lumber sold in all big box stores. I’d suggest sniffing around your local independently owned building supply places, and maybe getting something a little beefier. 6x6’s are heavy buggers and might be overkill, but they don’t tend to warp or buckle.

If you think 6x6’s would look silly, you could always go with metal posts and then encase them in cedar 1x.

Without pictures it’s hard to be certain but it sounds like everything’s fine. Pressure treated wood is usually sold pretty wet from the pressure treating process and when dried too quickly, along with natural tension in the wood, it can cause twisting and checking in the wood. Nothing to be concerned about. 4x4s are more prone to this than 6x6s or larger pieces of timber.

If you get the strike anywhere matches (white tip), you could just attach a piece of fine grit sandpaper (~400 grit). Would work like a charm methinks.

Yeah I know foam board is normally recommended but in some cases I have seen Kraft batts used in basements depending on the ability to keep moisture and humidity under control

It's probably not code to leave it exposed without drywall, but i agree that switching to a water resistant insulation is gonna be better in the long run.

Try and unsweat it. That little neck'd down pipe might be a pita and have to be replaced.

I was thinking this too. If its a basement, wouldn’t they not want a vapour barrier? Spray foam or rigid foam insulation directly onto the concrete is a better option? I guess depends where you live. Im in Canada where the ground freezes for 6 months out of the year.

The entire wall (wood, insulation etc) is supposed to wrapped from the top down under the 2x4s then back up to the top of the interior of the wall, so 2 layers of vapor barrier in a "U" shape. Putting a vapor barrier only on the inside will keep moisture inside the wall if it ever gets in and will cause mold. This was not done correctly.

or shellac based primer on the drywall - in general.... it acts as a vapour barrier.

but I wouldn't use it in a basement without a LOT of ventilation.

If you remove that vapor barrier that's glued to the batts you damage the batt as well vapor barrier should be secured if op staples this vapor barrier then they do not need a poly vapor barrier as well again I still suggest that local coding is checked but manufacturer says to secure the vapor barrier that is on the batt not to be just removed or else the r13 value that is up is no longer r13

DONT staple it, (if you can) … remove the paper prior to sheetrock. You do not want an additional vapor barrier holding in humidity.

If op wants to use a vapor barrier in the basement they should be using a smart barrier.

I'm sorry but you are incorrect.

https://buildingadvisor.com/materials/foundations-sitework/basement-insulation/

I did that, but I used rockwool which is moisture resistant.

if you want to drywall the basement you want to remove those batts and replace them with unfaced batts, rockwool or XPS. Rockwool is moisture resistant.

and that includes paper backed insulation.

You do not want a vapor barrier on the inside of your. basement walls. The paper backing on the insulation is a vapor barrier. You should replace that insulation OR don't drywall over it.

https://buildingadvisor.com/materials/foundations-sitework/basement-insulation/

Do you absolutely need drywall? I am also in GA and I just primed and painted the concrete walls in my basement. The dirt and poured concrete insulates far better than the rest of the house and I have no moisture problems. I see you have already framed out for drywall, but if taking it out and having concrete "industrial chic" walls is ok, then it's a possible solution