I’ll second this. In my 70’s home, had the benefit of having bare walls to start. I put up 2” poly iso board against the block wall, sealed gaps with spray foam and insulation tape, then framed in front of that and put in r-15. There is also a French drain installed. My basement is the warmest dryest part of the house now.

That is a soldered connection. The O.D. of 1/2" copper pipe is 5/8".

Do you think you hammered out the breeze block? If you put in the plugs and then hammered them as far as they would go, the breeze block may have failed on the back end. I would suggest repositioning the mount a few inches in either direction that fits your layout. Drill new holes and use masonry/breeze block anchors.

No vapor barrier for below grade concrete walls: water vapor from soil permeates through the concrete and will get trapped in the wall. From buildingscience.com: “Constructing frame walls, insulating the resulting cavity and covering with an interior plastic vapor barrier is common and often leads to odor, mold, decay and corrosion problems.”

The problem is that concrete is a huge thermal mass. Any change in humidity in the conditioned space will cause a surface effect on the concrete and adversely affect the fiberglass insulation and wood framing.

Yes the paper should be stapled to the wood should have a an overlap on one side also might want to try to fix the compression in yours bats so get your actual r value

I don't know your build or what happened, but generally speaking, the vapor barrier is intended to keep moisture out of the wall, not out of the room. In fact it should keep it in the room.

That being said, concrete does sweat, so foam board instead of fiberglass directly on the wall is still likely better and potentially where your moisture came from.

They did this in my house, and it caused mold and rot. Moisture will get in regardless of the outside seal, and while the vapor barrier will keep moisture in the wall and out of your basement, it’ll also slowly rot away the framing stuck between the vapor barrier and the wall below grade. It took maybe 20 years, but all the framing where we found a vapor barrier was severely degraded, and framing where there was no barrier was in amazing shape.

If you’re happy to let it rot to have a little less moisture come in, it works, but the lifetime of the framing will be cut short.

I’d advise either sealing with foam directly against the concrete, or skip the moisture barrier. As long as it’s well air sealed, vapor will slowly escape, allowing everything to dry.

Properly cut the ones you already installed, and you probably have enough for above the door.

Staple it. It will take 60 minutes top.

I would go buy a single roll ($15) of fiberglass insulation. If you are looking to add to the soundproofing, you don't want to do all that work and then skimp on that tiny space. Sound travels everywhere and will find and exploit that weakness.

Do it right, you'll be glad you did.

Would you rather save a tiny but of time and effort now, or spend a lot of money fixing mold issues later?

Having seen some of the nonsense companies sell these days, I'll give reddit even odds.

This is an article from 5 months ago about a fix that was put in place 5 months before that, that would allow someone to see my front porch, a place entirely visible at all times from the sidewalk 30 ft away

Your point remains largely unproven

Can of expanding foam.

You need barrier. Absolutely .

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Black sealing caulking as well.

Do i need to staple it to the wood or can i leave it as is?

If those batts are just friction fit I would pull them out and fit rigid foam against the foundation and spray foam any seams and then if you want to you could put the batts back up followed by drywall. No need for poly. I recommend looking at fine homebuilding a website for more information

https://www.finehomebuilding.com/project-guides/insulation/build-a-risk-free-finished-basements

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This is probably the best recommendation, honestly. I've also heard of people doing foam board against the concrete and then batting over that.

I also second the other recommendation to see if there's code specific to your area since it is likely high moisture/humidity

Yeah should be flush with the beams and tacked for a complete seal

That paper backing is actually a vapor barrier (worked for an insulation company in the northwest) but I would suggest looking into coding for a basement for higher humidity areas

No no no no. Never fiberglass in a basement. Never. Closed cell foam. Spray or sealed sheets.

That looks like paper face to me, which means the vapor barrier is built in. However, it should have extra flaps on the side that you staple to the studs to close up the vapor barrier (otherwise the studs become a point of ingress for moisture into the insulation)