I just posted a picture of it

Worst case you can use inside pipe cutters or a Dremel to disconnect the drain before going Hulk on the tub.

Yep.

IANAP, but if you post pictures of the drain, you might get pointers for removing it.

If don't remove it plumbing will break and then you have to redo plumbing, plummer's ain't cheap ,Lowes sells a socket.or called extractor. that removes tub drain shoe for about 19.00 trust me I us e it at work a lot.

Yeah, it's worth a shot. Depending on how old the tub is, it can be a lot harder than what the video depicts. You might need to spray some lube on it and let it set up for a bit.

They are just coated copper wire it’s fine.

great way to have a broken tv on the ground

I’ll try this tool: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Tub-Drain-Removal-Tool-410-075-0111/311493720

And if that doesn’t work I really have no choice but removing it from below right?

If you have access to a crawl space, I would highly recommend you go under the house and cut it out if you don't want to remove it from the top.

I have seen some people cut grooves in the drain and use a couple of screwdrivers to remove it, but it is still a massive pain without the right tool. If I were you, I'd just cut it and plan to use a connector and just run a new drain.

I see, I was hoping I could leave it because as I understand it if I can’t remove it from the top, the only other option is cutting it out from underneath - which would involve a long uncomfortable journey through a crawl space. But from what you’re saying it sounds like by not disconnecting it I run the risk of much more involved repairs needing to be done in that same crawlspace. So it’s either go under now for a fairly easy removal, or take a gamble on doing a big job down there. 🤔

Ooooookay. Here is the scoop you absolutely must remove/disconnect the drain assembly before you smash away at the tub. It it’s contributing substantial staying power to the tub being in THAT spot. Cut with a sawzall and proceed forth.

Exactly. The pipe is kind of recessed in the floor. Damage it, and the job becomes much larger. Best bet is to remove the drain beforehand.

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They are copper safe.

Yes, this I have used that extender with 3 different installs already, no issues

To make sure I understand correctly, even if I plan to replace the drain with something like this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/KOHLER-Clearflo-Cable-Bath-Drain-in-Polished-Chrome-K-7213-CP/100548753

The danger is that while the old drain is all attached, the sledgehammer hits may transfer some energy to the pipe that drain is connected to and damage it?

My son just used a black plastic garbage bag with double stick tape on the window casing. Put it up in the baby’s room to help him sleep.

Just be careful when you get to it that you don't snap the plumbing firther back and hafta make an even bigger plumbing fix than necessary. Also, there will likely be water in at least the trap but not enough to do any damage

I should have said "almost flush" as I'm not trying to have the shed touch the house, but I wanted under 6" of gap.

hmm, not a bad idea, I might do this.

Can you get it truly flush & sealed watertight? Otherwise it makes a nice pocket for water, rot, mice. Due to my siding, i can't. i leave enough of a gap that it can dry out, i can clean out trash, and varmints aren't going to live there. Mice, ugh.

Make your floor 8 feet then push it back 2 giving you a little porch.

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Go get one of these.

Reading between the lines, it sounds like your wall is plasterboard (aka drywall) glued directly to a masonry wall. What is the underlying wall made of?