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Glazier here, Adjust the door to your desired height/position and then “block the hinge” ask your local glass company for more info they should know this. This is the best video I could find about this on YouTube that describes what I mean:

https://youtu.be/ezGTPwCqzjQ

You're looking for an RV "converter" not inverter. It converts 120v AC to 12v DC for your 12v fans. Most have another wire that's set up to charge a battery.

The cheapest way is to just get a little 120v fan.

A battery tender puts out very little current, it won't keep up with any accessories. It's only meant to cover battery self discharge and a clock and radio presets.

A real battery charger will work, you can use it with the fans on, but only part time. I'm thinking the old style with a regular transformer inside, they're pretty heavy. New style switched mode might shut off when you turn something on, they're "smart" and panic easily.

An inverter will let you make 120v from a 12v battery. Wrong direction.

Are you positive that the hinges are screwed into a stud? Asking because I had the same issue, but it was because the top pivot hinge was attached to drywall using a heavy-duty toggle bolt, and the weight of the 1/2”-thick glass door was slowly pulling the drywall out of square. I fixed it by having a shower glass company come remove the door, then I cut the wall open and installed a stud right where the hinge went. Then had the shower glass guys come back to reinstall it. This was 6 years ago, door’s been nice & straight since then.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Heavy-Duty-Threadlocker-Single/dp/B000I1RSNS

Why is there a bathtub faucet in the shower, so low to the floor?

That was a thought as well, plug a small converter into an extension cord and run the fans off it. The trailer is used for storage/workshop (in a limited capacity) and for moves. Only time I'd really NEED to run the fans is once it's parked for an extended period of time. Would look into wiring to a switch and to the battery later down the road. Would just need to figure out how to stop power from going from converter to battery, just in case it gets parked and someone bumps the switch... But that can be dealt with later

I'll look into that, thanks!

I have had this exact issue as well and found this little tool to be crazy useful.

Winbag

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Consider an RV converter as a charger, or run directly from a converter with no battery or the battery switched off.

And that's exactly what I'm trying to avoid... Damaging the battery

Unfortunately not... The sun here is still pretty low on the horizon and the trailer sits in the shadow of the house so it wouldn't do anything.

Just use a charge controller, that's exactly what it does. You connect the charging source, the battery, and the load (in this case the fans) to the controller and it handles the inputs and outputs for you. They can be fairly cheap on eBay or Amazon.

Can you use a solar cell(s) to power the fan?

Is the clamp loosening or is there a resilient pad between the clamp and the glass shrinking?

In any case I would call the mfg and see if I could get a replacement.

Tighten the screws until you hear them start to squeak a little bit. Otherwise, remove the door clean all the gasket, glass, and hinge surfaces thoroughly with isopropyl, then re install door. (Career glass/shower guy)

You need to watch your charging voltage. With many chargers, the load of the fan will fool it into thinking the battery is depleted and raise the voltage to normal charging voltage which may cause excessive gassing and high water use. RVs get around this by having a middle charging stage where the charger operates around 13.8V when there is a small to moderate load on the system.

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With a tender, you'll just be running the fans off of it, and the battery will almost be moot. Except for the lights.

You'd want to make sure the charger puts more power in than the fans by a significant margin, or it'll all go kaput.

With an inverter, you'll lose quite a lot of power just having it on. Still useful

Obviously a subreddit full of whack jobs is a far better source of information.

But I'm glad you disclosed where you get your info from and what you consider a reliable source. I'm sure that will help OP properly contextualize your suggestions.

According to the FDA there is no danger to long term mold exposure.

So that’s nice.

BTW if you believe the FDA on that kind of thing, I expect there will be some good deals on Ohio housing in the near future.

I am 100% certain that subreddit is full of pseudoscience.

OP, please do not go to that sub and work yourself into a frenzy.

No, it's not good to be exposed to mold. However, the most likely outcome is allergies. Like, regular allergy symptoms. Many insane "medical conditions" are attributed to mold exposure without evidence.

Again, I'm not saying mold is good for you. I'm saying alarmist pseudoscience doesn't help anyone.

No, not necessarily. It matters which cardinal direction each wall faces.

And what you've said about it being more pronounced up near the ceiling does not square with my understanding of the situation. It matters where the air supply diffusers are directed, the position of the doors and windows, and other factors like insulation.

I'm not saying there's definitely no additional water intrusion, but I'm not understanding the reasoning you're using.

Edit: thanks for confirming that the "reasoning" you're using here is... None. Suspicion. Alarmism.

Thank you. That’s really helpful.