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Those flex connectors don't require tape. They have a rubber seal and only need finger tight plus a quarter turn or so. It's possible the tape is preventing it from going far enough to hit the rubber seal. OR you cranked it too tight and effed up the seal. Take tape off. Look at rubber o ring inside. If it looks ok install properly( no tape) and check. If you get any drips carefully tighten more a bit at a time. If it still leaks go buy another flex hose. 5 year apprentice ship to learn how to attach braided lines LOL

Dude...

Leading edge or trailing edge is the difference of which part of the wave form the dimmer cancels out to reduce the average current in the circuit, thats exactly what i was describing in my comment.

>they switch said AC current on/off at an adjustable time after the start of each half cycle, thus modulating the width of the pulses of current sent through the circuit

Leading edge vs trailing edge is just whether the circuit is turned back OFF during the half cycle, or turned back ON during the half cycle. You literally dont understand the technology enough to recognize a description of how it works. If all the ones youve installed have been leading edge or trailing edge, theyve all been solid state dimmers.

Also, he needs a 120V AC to 12V DC adaptor either way, so honestly he could use an AC dimmer OR a DC dimmer.

Got access to a 3D printer? Make a plate. At work we've done that on multiple occassions for similar issues.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DMQRWS2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Shallower box.

Not real difficult. Hammer and cold chisel. Bag of mortar mix. Squeeze bag( like a cake decorators bag). Pointing trowel. The trick is to fill the gap flush without letting mortar spill onto the bricks. Let set for awhile then tool the joint to look like the others.

Ahh I understand. So do I loosen that screw or take it out?

Spray some wd-40 down the overflow and work it up and down. There must be a ring of corrosion above the plunger. It is also kind of tricky removing them, you will pull it out to a point then need to rotate it 90° then pull at an upward/outward angle.

Does the old work box really stick out that far? Doesn't seem like the tabs that hold it against the drywall would cause that huge a gap. Tightened down well it should be nearly flush.

Try bending the sides of the mounting plate the lamp screws into back so when you attach it to the box they sit closer to the wall.

If it looks anything like the kohler one it will look like this. https://www.kullysupply.com/kohler-gp77759-mixer-cap the little set screw attached to the red part is what I’m referring to. It helps adjust the hot water side so it’s not too hot.

Thanks skydiver, would you recommend chiseling out & repointing myself?

Yeah it was definitely a bit of a shocker after feeling those lumps under the tiles - will definitely get replace with LVP I think. Thanks again

Thanks fergablu - just to clarify, am I correct in thinking that if I left the settled bricks & didn’t repoint, the lintel could rust?

This is the easiest and likely safest way. Trickle chargers aren’t expensive, and just clip to the battery terminals. Great for cars or bikes.

Thanks for that appreciate the response - as a newbie without much DIY experience when it come to repointing, would you recommend a DIY job after watching some YouTube videos on how it’s done etc, or would you hire a brick mason?

The real contractor's answer :-)

Just wiggling is fine. If you need to, you can use a pliers to squeeze that little pin that connects the two bars and remove the pin to take off the faceplate, but it shouldn’t be necessary. It might give you a bit more wiggle room.

Should i be squeezing both bars together or just wiggle it?

Don't make the mistake I did and try to force it like a gorilla.

Wow interesting! How do I go about changing that? Like what do I do to the screw?

Haha I realize my mistake. Any ideas on the cartridge?

I had the same problem when I replaced mine 2 months ago. I’m also the least handy person I know, so I was convinced I was doing something wrong.

It turns out, the angle you need to pull it out is kind of tricky. When I finally got the angle I needed after jostling it around for a few minutes, it came out surprisingly easily. Don’t pull too hard, but wiggle it side-to-side or up-and-down a tiny bit as you pull.

The brick is for sure settlement. Just chisel out and repoint.

The floor? Peel and stick on broken loose ceramic? Ya gotta wonder. You can leave for now if you don't mind walking on lumps but really it needs to be all taken out and LVP or ceramic tile put down. I would go with LVP.

You can either remove the light and somehow flush the box with the wall, or make a plate (believe it would technically be called an escutcheon) out of wood to fasten to the wall, to give you a flat surface to which you could fasten the light.

I pull up and out but the thing snags and doesn't want to move

That whole assembly comes out, should be 2 rods with a linkage in the middle and a plunger on the end. Pull it up and out.