Get a 3-12VDC universal adapter that let's you switch voltages.

If you plug it into an outlet with a dimmer switch, or get one of those dimmer adapters that goes between the plug and the outlet.

[deleted]

Honestly I'd probably just find soemthing like a marker light and attach it to the back of the housing. Get the flare size close then use a little aluminum putty, hot glue, whatever I have on hand.

Yeah that’s why I was wondering about dimming it. Anything you can think of that would allow me to dim it/control brightness?

Ok would there be a way to dim it as well?

Ok would there be a way to dim it as well?

Most old headlamps are 35w or 55w, which means you'll want at least a 5 amp 12vdc supply. You can google for that phrase. If you want to go with a smaller, cheaper supply you can slot in a lower power or LED bulb.

I...might downgrade the bulb for display anyway since a roadworthy headlight, even the old ones, is really bright to have sitting aorund inside.

Find the headlight plug, disconnect it, wire in a 12v power adapter to the plug. You'll want to disconnect the headlight completely instead of splicing in to it. That way 12v doesn't feed into the entire system

Just get a 12 volt DC power supply and wire it up. Shouldn't be too hard.

I mean, it’s the slightest of drips and I can turn the water off and use the other bathroom.

Clamp it so it lines up with the bottom flush with the cap on the angled knee wall and then scribe your lines… I install handrails. That is how you do it. (most quickly and accurately anyway). Then you cut one side. Move your clamps up to where your handrail is going to be placed and check to see if the other line you haven’t cut yet is where it needs to be…(your wall and that post might not be plumb or there might be some wowing going on).

Eyeball it to make sure the second cut is where it should be. The angle should be the same as your first cut (maybe a bit more or less but if everything is plumb then it will be the same). Then put your piece of wood up and mark for spindles… if there is a slight (like really small) gap between your cuts and the wall and post, when you attach it it should suck in and get pretty tight.. just use some wood filler if there are noticeable gaps.

I’m guessing both the post and wall have good attachment points (solid framing timber beneath drywall) if not then attach it to whatever has the most solid attachment point first and the weakest last.

We had to have some of the lintels on our brick house built in 1964 replaced because I was told the steel of the era wasn’t the best. I wouldn’t leave that because the weather can get in and rust the lintel more.

Need to see more, but your underlayment looks like real tile. If it's mostly loose, you would have to remove it and decide what you want as a finish floor there.

The brick repair is grind out mortar and tuck point (replace) it. It's odd spot to crack, above lintel. Usually the cracked is at the edge of a lintel.

[deleted]

• You are asking about a project that someone else did.
• You are not asking a question relating to something DIY.
• You are not asking a question at all.
• You are submitting a "DIY Tips" or "Tricks" post.
• You are trying to submit a survey / fundraiser.
• You are asking what an item is called - try /r/whatisthisthing.
• /r/DIY allows only two types of posts - finished projects & help requests.
• If your submission is neither of these - it will be removed.

Please read our guidelines before resubmitting.

If you believe this was a mistake, please message the moderators.

I found the guy who built my screened porch at Home Depot. We were both waiting to get paint mixed and struck up a conversation. I took his card and checked him out online. Discovered that we had friends in common. He did my porch, beautifully, and a few other jobs on that house. Several years later, when I was building a new house, I had him stop by the construction site at various points to make sure things were being done right. (He doesn't do full house construction, otherwise I would have hired him)

Hang out where the subs hang out

Not sure this is repeatable, but when we bought a home that needed a major rehab, what happened to us is we got a GC to bid the job, and then when it was 2x our budget we (first had a heart attack) then timidly asked if they could refer us to some roofers who could help us get the roof fixed before it rained, and this extremely kind person gave us their list of go-to subs, and as we saved up enough for that phase, we called them saying So and So gave us their number. (How we ended up short by half is a longer story.)

I found the guy who did my bathrooms at my health club…he was doing the tile work around the spa and I started small talking with him because I had the same issue trying to find subs, and his work was beautiful. I asked about the jobs they do, who owns the company, etc. Turns out it’s his company, and he’s a Ukrainian immigrant. He said he’d be tied up on the current job for a few weeks, but he could drop by and give me a bid. He ended up getting me on his schedule between 2 jobs and I couldn’t have been happier with the results. The downside is that he was expensive, but the trade off in quality and timeliness of the work was amazing, and I still had hair on my head at the end of the project.

Yeah, but a GC will have lists of contractors to use and to avoid, and good GC will backup their work and fix issues that arise out of their own pocket.

One thing you will need is prints and spec sheets. No one is going to work without those Then you will need permits. Then you will have to hire some one to do site prep. Then you will have to hire someone to pour a foundation, As each step is completed you should already have someone on tap for the next. Ideally, your foundation contractor would know some framers, etc.

Thank you!

I’ve been here 20 years, been out of the construction game for 7.

Fuckin priorities

[deleted]