You very much do not want an s trap. They act as siphons, sucking the water that is supposed to act as a seal for sewer gasses etc down the pipes.

Better off not putting in an s trap at all. Look up air admittance valve and follow directions for doing it right.

It doesn’t need to be above it, on the ground is fine, and probably safer.

Im an engineer and “carpenter” (come from family of carpenters and have helped my dad for a number of years. I know a decent amount in the trade)

This needs to be tied to the ground. I’d set 4x4s at least 2-3’ feet into the ground with concrete for the post. The 4x4 (?) joist you have the girders (what the kayak will rest on) sitting on could be switched to 2x6s and elevated off the ground.

The beam on the front and back which support the roof need to be at minimum a double 2x6 to support that span and roof load. The rafters are fine to be 2x4s. You need a barge rafter to hold the rafter ends in position. The over handing decking in the end with no rafter is no bueno. Decking cannot go unsupported for more than a few inches

The braces are fine. I’d probably add a short one on the side to tie back to the middle

Feel free to pm me for any other questions! Or reply to this

It’s better to build the jamb around the door before installing. That way you know it’s true and fits the door. It’s relatively simple, you can go about it with basic screws or fancy joinery depending on your skill level. I built a custom jamb last year to reuse an old door original to my home and I was surprised how well it turned out and people are amazed when I tell them I built the door jamb. For reference, I’m a slightly skilled DIYer who is happy to take on a project slightly above my skill set to learn.

Oh that’s actually very smart and simple. Thank you! Trust me to over complicate i!

Use two long pieces of scrap wood and nail them together near the end with one nail. Lay them where you want the rails next to the pond. Mark where the boards overlap and/or clamp them together.

Draw a line where you want the seam and cut there to make templates. They may not be the same angle, so label them.

This sounds great. If we hooked up the shower I linked above to a gas canister, would that work?

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Sorry if it wasn’t clear - I need to figure the angle at which I need to cut through the railing. We’ve got a reciprocating saw, chainsaw, 2 different jigsaws (a cheap ozito one and a big heavier black and decker), handsaws and possibly a makita circular saw - we haven’t tested if that works well or needs a service yet. Grandad has a garage full of just about everything you could imagine but his heavier duty equipment hasn’t been used in 10+ years and needs parts replaced and servicing etc etc.

Not sure if you want to know the number of degrees, or if you just want to cut the right angle.

What are you using to cut the boards?

Not much to do besides prime and paint if you want it to look right.

Never had a water stain bleed through after priming with Cover Stain

Seriously? Where do you live that rains muddy water?

Taller structure may also fit two yaks if it needs to

Get yourself some Simpson 3" SDS screws and a cordless impact driver. Works great for those flat "face nail" connections.

I don't have access to the furnace board. And the problem I'm having seems to be with both the current thermostat and the new thermostat. So I'm thinking now that it's nothing to do with the wiring

Can you please just take pictures of (and post):

The furnace board where the thermostat wires connect.

The terminals of the thermostat you're trying to install.

The terminals of your current stat.

How long has the leak been there?

If the leak has been fixed for several days already and the ceiling still looks like that then you are going to need to stain seal those particular areas and paint the entire ceiling

If those water marks are still actually wet then let them dry. Once dry, if they arent too bad the easiest solution would be to get more premixed drywall ceiling mud, add water to mix and stir until the drywall mud is more like the consistency of paint, and then apply several layers of the drywall mud/paint to the affected areas.

The picture is from before, I took it before I started making any changes. And I just put it back up and it's set up now identical to the picture

So the picture you took is before you started trying anything, or is it possible that you put the wires in the wrong place when reinstalling the old thermostat?

Although I'm starting to think the issue wasn't with the wiring of the Nest E but might just be with the HVAC system to begin with because I'm testing the old thermostat now and it still keeps running the internal blower when I don't want it to

The configuration you're suggesting didn't work, it's the first thing I tried in late December and I'm revisiting it now.

I know with the other nest you don't need to jumper rh and rc. It handles that internally. I would just put that wire into R. The other wires are the same.

The nest E thermostat only has a Y1, G, R, W1, C, and O/B wires. There's not a direct comparison to be made with my current thermostat. In addition, I dont have a jumper wire for my nest nor is one likely to fit due to the tiny terminal holes on the nest E thermostat. It isn't straight forward, at all.

It really couldn't be more simple... https://youtu.be/dHKD-9uI24I

You just label the wires with where they're plugged in now, and then put the same wires into the same spots on the nest base.