Recent comments in /f/DIY

darkerchef t1_j82kz37 wrote

I camp with a group that sets up 4 showers and a functioning kitchen(two hot water sinks, etc) for reenactment events. They use a propane version of on-demand water heaters, I think 3 total.

Their set up is pallets for the floor, 2” metal conduit for the framing, sump pits and drain lines to disperse the water, and the heaters are in a custom built, open front box for easy access. Works great, we feed and bathe ~150 people for 2 weeks that way.

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imdoingmyroutine OP t1_j81gcjg wrote

I figured it out! it was a coincidence as i also changed every outlet in the room and didn't realize i had to remove the tabs for switch-controlled outlets! It was def a learning experience and i feel like i have a slightly better understanding of wiring and electric now. Thanks again for your help!

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Capt_Corn_Dog OP t1_j819bfx wrote

Maybe, but I wasn't looking for recommendations on whether this was overkill. I did that in Hawaii, and it constantly got pools of water in the cover that was a pain. I'll still be covering it, but mainly for sun protection of the gear on top. It's a fishing yak

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Japslap t1_j8171le wrote

You can build an elevated platform for drainage. Essentially a pallet to stand on.

There are some primitive options for warm water but they require the right climate and site.

For example, you could simply elevate a vessel (like a 55 gallon drum) and use the sun to heat it. Fill the drum from your spigot in the morning or the night before. Paint it black, so it absorbs the most heat. It heats during the day, you use it at night.

You can then have 55 gallons of water each evening. Of course it is dependent on having sunlight exposure.

It doesn't have to be a drum, it could be a PVC piping network, or a large bladder.

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truemcgoo t1_j80xq0b wrote

If you want a door you need some sort of frame and jamb, you can get real fancy and customize that however you want.

My suggestion would be to get a bifold door kit, you can cut three inches off top and bottom of the door a lot easier with a bifold than with a swing door. With a hollow core door when you cut it for height you end up with a hollow cavity at the cut and have to fill it in. With bifold doors you have to use the cut off pieces as a guide to drill similar holes in the new fill pieces. The door comes with a kit and instructions, you can install it directly in a drywall opening without any demo, the kit allows a bit of flexibility for adjustment for getting it right for height and plumb.

There are lots of other options, but this is the cheapest and most straightforward in my eyes. The main things you have to watch out for is that the holes in top and bottom get drilled in the right location. The depth doesn’t matter and they don’t have to be perfectly plumb, but if they aren’t laid out properly the door won’t swing right. Being smart about using the cut off as a guide or jig, and double checking before drilling is best bet. If you mess up you can re-drill the holes or replace the piece but it’s a bit of a pain.

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rudownwiththeop t1_j80w9d7 wrote

4x4 posts for the uprights put them on pier block, or better yet, cement them into the ground
Front to back bracing
Add some strong ties to the diagonals... they'll hold better

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