Just to add, use an oil based primer first. A spray can will work just to prime over the stained portions of the ceiling. If you paint right over it without primer, the stain will bleed through. As other said, flat paint is best. Matching however is going to be a nightmare. You need a flat sample to get a good match with a color sensor. Painting the whole ceiling is the right answer, but go ahead and give matching a shot. You'll have to prime first either way, and maybe you get lucky. If it's too noticeable, you can always just finish painting the rest of the ceiling.

What if your horses need to go eat?

All very good points. Will incorporate into my second draft!'

Don't know about hanging it. The yak is over 100 lbs. I'll look into options that are rated for that much weight. I definitely don't want to hang by the handles, because they are secured with rivets. Good enough to move around, but don't think they're intended to be used as long term weight bearing.

Looks stable side-to-side (long-ways), but needs diagonal stabilizers front to back too. Smaller is fine, and actually, your other diagonals could probably be a lot smaller.

The vertical posts need to be 4x4s, and if you're doing that, make them tall enough to stand under without banging your head. You can hang the kayak(s) and equipment on the posts instead of on the ground that way, too.

I also suggest that you cut the tips of the long 2x4s at a 45 degree angle to minimize head bruises. Very simple miter saw cut.

Rather than nails - I'd recommend wood screws and angle iron like these ties commonly found at most hardware/DIY stores.

Yeah, I knew what you meant. As you said just being silly. :o)

If you can somehow get a physical sample, from a closet or utility room ceiling, you can take that sample to a paint store and they can match the colors. Get flat paint and feather it out the best you can. It will be noticeable, but not as bad.

It’s going to be noticeable if you don’t paint the whole ceiling. Also, you should use a primer.

The plan was weight, but I think maybe the best route may be to extend the vertical posts and drive them into the ground a few feet?

Good point on the load transfer, I'll redesign that, thank you!

The tall side will go against a fence, and while further away, the house will mitigate wind from the other side.

Yes, shingles.

I was planning on grass, and using ground contact rated lumber for the 4x4 and vertical posts.

I was planning on buying or renting a framing nailer. I've never done this before, but am fairly capable if I know what to do, which is why I'm asking here.

The tall side would be near a wooden fence that is taller than my structure.

Thanks for the tips. No snow here in coastal Texas usually. But I'll look into it.

More advanced than me. I put mine outside, under a tree, on two horses and wrapped it with rain tarp. Called it a day.

No because the whole structure is a sailboat with that angled roof

Youve got thin bits of wood perpendicular to the length of the roof. I would perhaps consider using thicker posts or square beams for these. You wouldnt want wind to blow it over, and those thin sides could be a vulnerability.

I would also concrete them into the ground at least a foot, maybe foot and a half.

Roof likes fine. If its just for a kayak it really doesnt need to be fort knox.

Google “rafter span table” or “rafter size chart” to get info on what dimension lumber you should be using for various parts of the project. It also depends on where you are located. If this structure will be expected to handle a snow load for example then it’s critical you build it to handle that. What do your local codes have to say about standards for similar structures in that regard?

It's fine for a quick kayak shelter.

One thing I'd change: it's always best to build horizontal beams on top of vertical posts, rather than bolt beams onto the side of posts as you've illustrated. This transfers the load directly rather than relying on the shear strength of your fasteners.

Edit: how's this going to be anchored to the ground?

How much exposure would there be to wind in the location you're looking to install this?

Are you planning on putting roofing tile/shingles on the top?

Will the structure be placed on soil/gravel/concrete/etc.?

How will you be fastening the columns/beams (i.e.: galvanized angle iron, etc.)?

Before you do anything...

Determine if this is a load bearing wall.

And find out where the studs are in relation to your proposed door.

Thank you!

It can't be removed unfortunately. The unscrew bit only gives access to the filter, not to be able to remove the grate.

Non removable unfortunately :(

Hahaha, I mean the pipe cleaner of course silly! :p

You mean attach 1xs on wall and ceiling and then attach a door?

Just wall area, yes.