Yep. You got it!

It’s not. The solder is though

I think I solved it. The trick was to slide one of the gaskets (the white one) over the neck of the tube. The green gasket goes between the top of the tube and the base of the pipe coming out of the base of the sink. The white gasket forms a pressure fit between the female-threaded collar and the male threaded catch.

It's all assembled and everything's tight. I ran the sink for 20 minutes just to be sure. It took me two hours of trying every combination of attachments but I think it's solved.

Look at the way you are holding the "trap" and the position of the tailpiece under the sink at the end of the video, keep them in that position but try switching the position of the green seal and white seal.

Huh, interesting. Must be regional thing, I'm up in northern new England and have basically never seen that. TIL

I was talking about before the home. However, I've worked on a few homes and the majority are PVC with older homes being zinc plated steel. House I'm in now is 100% PVC and CPVC, and the house I was in before was the exact same as well. Just went and looked at a home the other day and it was probably 80% PVC and CPVC. This is in the Houston area as well.

Links? Ya I'm sure there's some Harvard study that pins it right down. No dude, just go in literally any house and there's a nearly 100% chance it's copper or pex, occasionally old cast/lead

Maybe I shouldn't have said often, but they used PVC for a bunch of the supply lines in my brothers neighborhood as they were building it. Honestly it's probably mostly old cast iron or something, but I don't know.

Got any links, because now I'm curious and the only thing I could find said PVC is used, but not how often. I've seen a few systems done in plants made from PVC so I figured it was used pretty often. Also, I wasn't even specifically talking about traditional PVC, just some sort of Polyvinyl Chloride because it's cheap ... or used to be.

Call kraftmaid to here there recommendations

I guess, but I'm an old timer DIY and done more copper plumbing than Starbucks got latte and think I have had one leak in 55 odd years, and that my own stupid fault, so think I'll stick my ancient plumbing torch :).

If it's easy for you (don't waste your time on it): Is it even possible to tell if I'm missing any pieces? If I have them all then I'll keep banging my head against a wall.

Honestly not sure I could explain in text, but once you get the p trap kit, it'll have instructions on it as far as which way to orient the gaskets etc

There is nothing in the NEC limiting aluminum to service entrances. You can wire a whole house with the stuff if you want.

I can grab a new one. But, how can I put this one back together?

Go grab a p trap kit from homedepot/your big box store. It'll be about maybe $5?

If the p trap is siphoned dry after you shut off the water from the sink (it shouldn't, but might depending on how the behind the wall section is plumbed), you will need to add an under counter vent between the wall connection and the trap but that's only if needed.

Definitely remove all the old caulk, doesn't sound like it's is the right product. Like others have said silicon is the way to go. You can even get mould resistant ones especially for bathrooms. I have heard you are supposed to fill the tub with water to weigh it down whilst doing the silicon.

37 years In the trade. Soldering still 🤴

Thank you!

I will say from a DIY perspective, I do like that the crimping tool comes with a gauge that I can check the joints afterwards to know they are sealed before flipping the water on. Shark bites are a bit more push and sure, guess it's good. That and the cost aspect of crimp rings and fittings vs shark bite fittings favor crimping (assuming you have the tools required).

I was definitely surprised. Of course I was expecting it to be screwed on when I bought it so when I couldn’t find the screws….

I thought you weren't supposed to use these in a wall.

Yup. They make connectors that you sweat to your copper on one side and the other has the appropriate connection for the type of pex you use. I would definitely go that route for something permanent.

You should remove the old stuff completely. Yes, it is time consuming. Yes it sucks. Yes anyone can do it.

The way you describe it, this failure has nothing to do with the press-on connection type that's made popular by Sharkbite. This is a failure of the valve that can happen with any brand.

Meaning, if you're just using a coupler your experience is not indicative of a larger chance of failure.

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