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Duh!!!!!!

Do not connect the headboard to the frame. Screw the headboard into the wall. If you can't find studs use dry wall anchors. Use a washer behind the head of the screw so you don't screw right through the headboard.

Just butt the frame up against the headboard afterwards.

A 3-pack water sensor is like 70$. A water leak will cost you will cost you many many many time this if not caught soon enough

Yes, that is exactly what you would use. Copper sweat to PEX crimp

Of course you can. Even better, you can extrapolate whatever result you like!

Most people will at least feign credibility and hide their incompetence, but you just said the stupid part out loud. 😆

Thanks, it's been a long week and I needed a laugh.

Thank you!

It seems completely forgotten that I said this line in my first post of this entire chain:

>"I'm not saying that it's impossible for sharkbites to fail more frequently, I'm just saying there has been no objective proof to this day that they actually do."

Reddit sometimes.

I'm a big fan of expansion PEX and I'm replacing a lot of 80-year-old copper plumbing with it. Back then a half inch copper line supplied the entire house.

Do you know what I've seen more gas engine failures than electrical vehicle failures in my life.

There seems to be no common sense with the SharkBite fans, they just want magical nonexistent data.

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Sharkbites == never again for me.

I've had two pipes in our house fail due to rapid temperature variations. Both were (insulated) copper hot water pipes in an exterior wall. In both cases the sharkbite fitting blew out it's sealing ring within a year of being installed and caused thousands of dollars worth of damage. Neither was connected to an exterior tap.

We have relatively high pipe pressure in these parts but well within the range of the fittings. They simply don't work, I wouldn't trust any sharkbite fitting in-wall, and won't ever risk it again.

Insurance won't pay for anything but cleanup. Sharkbite won't pay for their, used as instructed, failures. And the siding contractor who hit the original lines and fixed them with sharkbites is not willing to pay for sharkbite's failure to function as advertised and instructed.

I think it was more about that you shouldn't take anecdotal evidence at face value than it was about defending sharkbites

Well, the way the person was defending sharkbites like its their firstborn child is why I said they sound like a shill...

The copper in a sharkbite isn't either. But good plumbers will warranty their work. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I'm sorry that no one has collected data on every single installation ever.
You can however extrapolate data from anecdotes.

I appreciate this as I've been thinking of having all my 70yo shut off valves replaced

I took a picture of the remains of my failed valve. Looks to me like the O-ring failed, allowing water to slip by. Yes, my town has VERY hard water.

Cutaway of my failed valve

Apparently they have the biological equivalent of this for human organs now.

What would be a better way to go from Copper->Pex? Something with a solder connection on one side and the pex-crimp on the other?

I remember years and years ago the end of the world was coming when pex came out. We were all going to drown and get herpes from pex. Now a plumber wouldn’t use anything else.

Sorry I'm not a plumber, just an informed homeowner. I cannot suggest what you should do from my experience. However we have high water pressure in our house. I've removed all plastic plumbing parts. I do have the stainless braided faucet connections which are technically plastic, I was careful to purchased from a "premium" mfg (if there is such a thing).

We had a new furnace installed last March. The plumber was a very knowledgeable guy who was recommend by a friend who is a maintenance leader in a mfg company. This guy has done a lot of work for them and it has always been to notch. When asked about sharkbite he will only use them for temporary installations.

While not the same exactly, I personally look at sharkbites as similar to the aluminum wire used in homes in the 1970's. Now aluminum wire does not meet code except for services.

Having said that I would put it on my list of do do things.

Welder/mechanic here, o-ring seals are commonly used in 3000 psi hydraulic systems and can have service lives of decades in some cases under brutal conditions.

I've seen fully welded connections fail under the same loads and conditions.

O-rings fail, welds fail, solder fails. Mode of failure is different for each one and you want to pick the one that best fits your situation, but an O-ring fitting isn't inherently worse than solder or weld for a residential application and requires a lot less skill to do correctly.

The main modes of failure that I see for o-rings are being cut on install, dry rot, or a connection not properly cleaned. If you leave a sharp edge on your pipe and it cuts your o-ring even a little bit, it very well might leak. But that's poor install, not o-rings being garbage in general.

Not a fan. Anything relying on an O ring to seal it is going to fail eventually. I do copper plumbing with fire, and if that isn't an option it gets PEX or PVC.

You want permanent and no flame? Propress. The crimping tool will set you back some $$ though.

I work in an old hotel, we have a few sharkbite valves on hand for emergencies. We will solder or now Propress, a "real" valve on later.

I have never seen a sweat copper joints can fail, it's a workmanship issue for those.

I have 3" copper joints that have weeped for years, decades. Big joints are hard to heat up and solder properly. They haven't gotten worse and some day we'll shut the whole building down to fix.