Tape would be a good idea. I wonder if a couple of well placed thick carpet-pads would work to hold it down. We have some of those holding down rugs on a wood floor and they work really well.

Edit: norsk website actually says just put it on the floor. The use of an adhesive or other backing isn't advised.

Any big-box store will have those plastic nuts. Don't be afraid to go to town on them.

Even Amazon has them.

Hm I've seen sources that say it's only purpose is to secure the plug into a wall, it won't provide ground but I'm not a professional

I agree. I have only ever insulated hot water lines when they enter an unconditioned/vented, or uninsulated crawlspace.

That being said, there is no reason you cannot insulate from the tank to the wall. Just not sure what benefit it has.

Maybe if it was new construction and you are insulating to get a zero offset heat waste for being as "green" as possible you could insulate 100% of your hot water lines, but at that point you are probably insulating all the interior walls because you already drank the Kool-Aid™ of "perfectly" insulated and sealed home construction.

Wall to wall won't hold them, because they expand and contract a significant amount with any temperature change. Before using double sided tape or construction adhesive, I would suggest using low pile carpet tiles under the mats. With this, the mats won't get damaged if they shift, and it is easier to pick them up and clean them or clean under them (like if something gets spilled on them).

Buy a few rolls of mat tape and use those to cover all the seams. You can go with clear, or get colored opaque "striping" mat tape if you want to have some sort of pattern to your edges and completely hide the seams. That will make the tiles shift as one big mat, reduce gaps, resist spills and dirt getting under the mats, and make anchoring the mats more effective.

They are really rusted. No telling how long they have sat.

That's a 5x4.5

Yea 99% of the new tanks out there do not need any additional insulation on the tank. All of the energy efficiency requirements that have to meet put them in a much different category than even a tank that is 10 years old. It's the pre-2000 tanks that have been well maintained and are still working that can benefit from a tank wrap.

Don't do it.

A ground fault interrupt is totally unnecessary unless your PC is outdoors or 6 feet from the bathtub.

If your PC power supply has a grounded plug, use a grounded outlet, and make sure it's actually grounded.

so that was the first thing I tried after giving up on the hinge covers, but the pliers just pretty much tore up the plastic of one of the nuts instead of turning it. image here: https://imgur.com/a/UDVSjVU

maybe I need to try different pliers or apply less force? thank you!

Grounding is a critical element required for proper surge protection. In regard to the question about whether surge protectors work on ungrounded outlets, the answer is “no.” Surge protection equipment typically uses components called metal oxide varistors (MOVs) to divert excess current into the ground line. An ungrounded outlet does not have this third ground wire, therefore there is no place for the surge protector to divert excess current.

Redgard is a fluid applied waterproofing and crack proofing membrane that is typically used to seal shower floors and walls where you have installed either cement board or tile backer board. It can also be applied to brick/CMU/plywood. I have never tried to use it on greenboard and don't know if it is warrantied for that application, or how paint would then bond in a ceiling application.

In a nutshell it is a roll-on plastic liner you can put mortar over and then tile. I have also used it on a plywood subfloor, under a LVT in a laundry room to guarantee any leaks/spills/overflows would not get to the joists and subfloor.

Pre-Catalyzed epoxy is a one-part pre-mixed epoxy paint. Most waterproof epoxies are 2-part kits that you have to mix together then apply (messy and a PIA to deal with). to form a hard waterproof coating. Pre-Cat comes premixed and ready to use like standard paints or shellacs, but it forms a harder wear surface and is more durable at sealing, especially on GWB/greenboard. Plus, it can be tinted to color match anything. Even the big box store like Home Depot carry it and mix it. If it is an oil-based system (there are water based as well) and it is difficult to paint over down the road. I guess that is a pro and con. it's hard-to-get other paint to stick to it. It does an amazing job of waterproofing drywall/GWB/greenboard.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-PRO-1-gal-White-HP-Pre-Catalyzed-Waterborne-Epoxy-Semi-Gloss-Interior-Exterior-Paint-HP15001/301899214

You're probably ok, but if something goes wrong it will go really wrong. You can get those 2 prong to 3 prong asldapters that have the attachment to screw into the wall outlet screw to provide grounding, that will theoretically fix the problem, if the outlet conduit is grounded. That's what I have done in the past

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To really be certain, it would be a good idea to get a multimeter and verify that you are getting the correct voltage when testing between hot and ground (should be the same as testing between hot and neutral). You can do this carefully with the bare wire in the box before cutting it. But be careful, as you would be reaching into the back of the potentially live box with a probe while the circuit is energized!! (Highly recommend safety gloves if you do this.)

Right idea, wrong tool.

Loosen the plastic nut with a pair of pliers, not a socket. You can likely use your fingers, once the tension is removed.

Also, unless the rims themselves are junk/damaged/corroded, it's usually easiest to just take them to a tire store and get new tires put on them. I would not assume there's enough standardization between different manufacturer hub designs to want to even mess with trying to install new hubs on the existing spindles, at that point might as well replace the axles and then buy spare hubs for the new axles from the same axle manufacturer.

If the rims are corroded but otherwise serviceable, I would just take them to a tire store and have the tires removed, take them home and refurbish them, then take them back to get new tires installed, overall that's probably going to be the cheapest way to four new tires.

There are hooks you could screw into an anchor.

Lol no worries - speech to text is always a shot in the dark for me. Thank you so much!

I sure agree with your measure twice! Imagine the manufacturers liability (particularly in the US) if they recommended and relied on the upper cab which already may be loaded to fully support that appliance. And only God knows how securely it may be attached. If that whole thing came crashing down on you and your stove. Heavons to humpy dumpy!

My first reaction is that it looks like rising damp or damp of some kind. I don't have any experience of it myself but it will definitely need addressing before you can successfully redecorate the wall.

You can get metal drywall anchors with a hook or a bare plastic anchor plus separate hook to screw in. Both should be fine but imo first option is better.

I was in NYC quite a time ago. Now in NJ and can't be happier ;)

No worries, I'm curious, at this point... and I know how difficult (and expensive) it can be to book an electrician, in this town (I'm also in NYC).

Slipperiness is considered. I may put down some double sided tape or maybe a small dab of construction adhesive on a few of the tiles. Something to give it a bit of shear strength. They will be going wall to wall in one direction so I'm hoping that they'll have some structure that way.