Recent comments in /f/DIY

Successful_Ride6920 t1_j6oiuwk wrote

Had somewhat of a similar issue, purchased a butcher block, sanded it down, bat one spot was giving me trouble. Neighbor gave me a small jar of "industrial bleach". not sure where he got it, it didn't solve the issue 100%, but pretty close. I think it was a powder substance that was mixed to make it liquid. HTH.

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FF_UpToPar t1_j6oith0 wrote

If your door is properly balanced you should be able to bring it up to shoulder height, let go, and the door should not drop or raise on it own.

If you have extension springs and need to replace them note the color on the loop, that indicates the weight it is rated for.

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marigolds6 t1_j6oijsy wrote

Test them out first. There is a lot of variability in quality of these kinds of tiles. They often need to be taped together to prevent gapping, sliding, and spreading. Some tear very easily, others will take impressions easily (and permanently).

Even with quality tiles, there is a good chance they will still slide on the concrete and you might need something underneath to prevent that. When I have seen these used in dojos and gyms, they frequently use carpet tiles.

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deviantbono t1_j6ogq1a wrote

Is it a good idea? Probably not. Have I done it? Yes. Has it caused any problems (yet)? No.

Can you install directly on remaining sub-floor? Maybe, depends on which way the joists are running and possible height differences. Can you reinforce with additional plywood? Probably. Should you nail additional layers into joists? Debatable, but probably not.

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eeandersen OP t1_j6oepkx wrote

Reply to comment by Sluisifer in Garage door motor troubles by eeandersen

Thanks for your thoughts. The opener installation is about 18 years old, so I expect it is time for a new motor head. The spring is that age, too. The opener had recently stopped responding to any remote control, too (tried to re-program to two remotes).

The door is not particularly "heavy", so I think the balance is good. IE, it opens and closes by hand with reasonable effort.

All signs say new motor head.

Thanks for responding!

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Mysterious-Ad7019 t1_j6o6qzl wrote

And as a person who's seen crazy things from actual life, you'd know that what should be a perpendicular stud might actually be installed "wrong" because people are sometimes idiots and then you get buildings with all sorts of WTH!?!...

There's no info from the op whether that wall was there originally, or someone moved/turned a wall and built a new one around whatever studs were there. No info on the actual architecture of the home, etc.

....

So, rather than assume from afar, which is one way to make the unexpected into a real problem, simply proceed as if that is a true load bearing stud to minimize the Oh F#!*' moments.

This is also safer for the op because he doesn't have any good way to ensure 100% whether this is or isn't load bearing - doesn't have the access or experience.

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knowitallz t1_j6nzcst wrote

I did a high loop. My dishwasher even came with the hose thing that holds the high loop.

It's under the sink. So it goes out the dishwasher low through the sink cabinet sideways. Then up high loop as high as it will go under the actual sink, then back down in the garbage disposal.

Also the best practice is to make sure the disposal is clear of anything while you run the dishwasher so it can drain without issue.

Also put a little detergent in the washer area (not the enclosure) so it will wash during the prerinse

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speedyspaghetti OP t1_j6nwl0k wrote

Thanks for the quick response.

So, if I were to do this, and the outlet tester were to indicate a correctly grounded outlet, does that rule out the possibility that it was not grounded at the panel? Or, does the tester only detect whether the ground wire is connected to the outlet, and thus not if it is truly grounded? If the latter is the case, how would I go about verifying that it is in fact grounded?

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No-Nobody-273 OP t1_j6nwi5r wrote

>Sorry - not sure why this sub-thread is not allowing me to add pics? I can usually add them but no option for some weird reason.
>
>But I pulled up some of the particleboard and there is no subfloor under it. It is old school floor boards (~9 in wide) that run perpendicular to the joists. So looks like I should put down a new reliable subfloor. Thanks for helping me make the right decision.

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