Sorry - not sure why this sub-thread is not allowing me to add pics? I can usually add them but no option for some weird reason.

But I pulled up some of the particleboard and there is no subfloor under it. It is old school floor boards (~9 in wide) that run perpendicular to the joists. So looks like I should put down a new reliable subfloor.

Keep in mind when working after someone else that especially when mistakes are made that they may have never grounded it all the way back to the main panel or any sub panels.

Yes what you are saying is fine and safe if they didn't do some weird ass backwards other things. If all they did was skip grounding the outlets then pigtailing it will work perfectly fine as well as going to a larger wire size is fine.

I personally wouldn't want particle board in any part of my flor, but...

As long as the uppermost layer of subfloor is plywood, it should be acceptable/good enough.

Thank you - will do!

A detailed enough question you might post it to r/AskElectricians/

Thank you for responding.

EDIT - I pulled up the 1/2 in particle board subfloor and this was under it. Assuming I should pull up all particle board and re-lay down OSB or plywood. Would 1/2 inch plywood suffice to match height of adjacent hallway?

It starts blue and then as it gets closer to extinguishing it goes yellow

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Isn't the concern that too close to the tank can potentially obstruct flue if tank is fuel heated?

The product you are using is not really a wood finishing product. It's primarily a fungicide designed to, well, preserve wood - things like joists and floorboards. It doesn't repel water. I honestly would not use it for an interior project like a desk particularly if you're eating off of it.

You need to use a proper top finishing coat like a compatible oil based polyurethane. Sand down to 220 or so like the previous comment and use a few coats of poly sanding lightly with 320 or higher grit in between.

I think you have a weak pilot and the updraft established by the hot fireplace basically blows it out after the main flame goes out.

I would start by pulling the pilot assembly out of the fireplace, then disassemble the pilot and clean with water and a little brush if you have something like that.

There's no reason to get the thermopile wet, just wipe it off.

There's a good chance the pilot orifice is partially blocked, if you have some 18 gauge stranded wire, you might be able to poke a single strand through the tiny hole. It's usually easier to just replace them. There should be a number on it, buy the same size.

It's pretty much where I sanded, the original marking from the pan was a lot smaller surface area.

Thanks

Thanks

Clean it completely with de greaser spray or whatever. Clean and inspect with a magnifying glass or zoom camera on phone for imperfections or breaks. Try reinstalling and see if it did the job. If not replace.

You could also try wood conditioner to open the pores. Running lumber through a planer often closes the pores and will prevent stain from penetrating.

I am not a plumber but I did get a new sink and reinstalled my dishwasher with a new water line, P-trap, disposal, and high loop. Haven't had any issues.

Yep, first step is cleaning then replacing the thermocouple. Try shining it up with some fine grit sand paper and position it just a little closer to the flame. If that does not work pick up a new one.

If I can ask, do you have any recommendations on styrofoam vs those reflective air gap insulation options on garage doors? I live in North Texas and have been contemplating adding some form of cheapish DIY insulation to my garage as it can get very chilly in the winter. Appreciate any advice a professional can offer.

I have never understood the wisdom of insulating a few feet of hot water pipe from the tank to where it disappears into the inaccessible reaches of the house upstream. In my case, I have only about 4' of 1/2" copper hot water pipe below a finished ceiling. That only about 1 pint of water.

Never insulate cold water lines. The insulation will trap condensation and hold it against the pipe. Two things can happen: 1. Legionella bacteria can be formed, and 2. U.I.C. can happen causing pinhole leaks.

What does the pilot flame look like?

(Unless the construction/formula has changed recently) You don't want particle board anywhere where you might even think water can get. Even if you manage to nail it down well enough that it doesn't eventually work loose, particle board does not handle water damage well at all. Particle board is glued together "scraps", that are them compressed. Nails don't work well in it, and it doesn't take much water for it to start to swell and crumble. And the thinner it is, the worse it is

Follow the manufacturer's recommendation, and spring for real plywood. It may cost you more now, but in the long run you'll spend a lot less

They have a limit on bag sizes at the tip

Particle board or OSB? Pics?

New openers are cheap, quieter, and won't waste hours of your time trying to troubleshoot. Unless you just want to tear into it for fun, I wouldn't consider trying to fix it.

What you need to do is figure out what caused it to fail in the first place. These things do wear out with time, and if it's been a long time perhaps there's no issue, but usually there's a cause.

When was the last time the spring was replaced? They wear out with time, putting the door out of balance and making more work for the motor. Tightening the spring (a very dangerous operation if you don't know what you're doing) is not a real fix. It can lessen the most severe strain on the motor, but it will not balance the door. It will just cause too much return force when the door is raised. Also check that the tracks are straight and parallel, clean and lubricated.

Basically, you don't want to put a new motor on only to have it break in a year or two. Make sure the door is in good shape. You should be able to disconnect the motor / drive chain and move the door with your arms. If it's very hard to open or close, that's a problem that needs to be addressed.