FWIW that's not a butcher's block, that's just a wooden counter top.

Butcher's block always has the wooden staves oriented vertically, with the grain side up, so when you hit it with a cleaver 100 times a day you don't get splinters in your sausage. As it were.

Nails will not hold in particle board. What part of that don't you understand. You have a house full of loose floorboards probably.

The flooring should be easy to pull up in those two rooms and replace with plywood.

No pics

interesting. I know for certain my Bosch has a check valve, but it also has a metal mesh filter to prevent food particles from ending up in the sump.

My brand new tank specifically says an insulating wrap is not needed and voids the warranty.

I’ve never seen that before, you should definitely get an electrician to look at it as the idea of a loose wire scares me

Tung oil and citric acid. The acid opens the pores, tung oil takes a bit to dry, but is tough. Food safe, as well.

Use something like a Simpson snap togglen as large as can be accommodated. 2 of those plus 2 screws into a stud and you should be okay.

No, I've installed a regular one. There's one black cord coming from a 3rd switch that has a opening in the middle. Have no idea what it is for as end of it goes to one of connections of 3rd switch.

2 cords (black and red) should control the 2nd switch I assume.

As a wrote in comment below 2nd light works even with no switch hooked, so it's hardwired somewhere else I guess?

I don't think a dishwasher can have a check valve as they are designed to remove food particles. A check valve might get clogged pretty quick under those use conditions.

I'm talking out of my ass ofcourse, some models might have those valves since some models have a built in high loop. But code is code, and it's meant to protect the average user. I think the manufacturer would have to send a lobbyist to ask every state, city, and township to update their code as well.

I actually (with 2nd switch taken off) put a bulb in a 2nd lamp and it lights up.

Seems like it's hardwired somewhere without even touching the switch. What a nonsense.

Looks like a 3way light switch is needed based on those 3 wires, is that what you installed?

Is it possible that the bottom of the pan was oily, and it wicked into the wood and the oil is preventing the adhesion of the stuff you're trying to apply? Is it the entire piece of wood that won't take your sealant, or just the approximate area underneath the pan?

Garage door repair guy here.

No opener is built to lift an out of balance door, the proper springs should be installed to balance the door.

Honestly and truly I hate when people insulate their own doors, it really doesn't really make much of a difference as far as heating/cooling

Do you mean don't insulate the cold water pipes in your home, or don't insulate the cold water pipe going into the water heater?

I found that the cold water pipe (about 1 or 2 feet of it) going into the water heater was warm, and I insulated that. Should I remove that 1 or 2 feet of insulation?

Many thanks. The tank is very new and feels rather cool, so internally insulated as per the diagrams I have seen.

Like I said it’s specific. But there will as many opinions as there are users. Gutter must be functional and aesthetic.

That's why- I see this rec everywhere but no one ever mentions it's due to Legionella.

Yes, to greenboard and vapor barrier on the ceiling install. Steam and warm wet air rise and will condensate on the ceiling even with a well-insulated space above.

I go a step further and install a Pre-Catalyzed Epoxy paint on any bathroom/shower that I am doing so that even the taping mud is sealed and mold proof. Might be a waste since the stuff is $50-65 gallon, but it is insurance in my mind.

Thanks

This is my understanding as well. Nothing to do with the pumped wastewater reentering the dishwasher.

What I'm confused about is, doesn't every dishwasher have a check valve on the drain pump outlet, or in the drain hose?

Especially after OP states in the original post "it is no longer code where I live" 😂

Just to let you know, a 5m length of UPVC quadrant will likely cost you less than £7. That being said, you'd need to re-silicone it anyway.

The current beading you have will likely continue to shrink, It will be so much easier for you to replace the beading now, than it will be if you silicone the corners. (and it would surely look nice with a white bead?)

I guess if it's sloped even a little it's good enough for the most part?

Yeah, there was a discussion a few weeks ago about dishwasher back wash and after looking into it, it seemed like a bunch of states didn't require it. The vast number of different ways that states go about their plumbing codes makes it damn near impossible to discuss code on the internet regarding the United States. IPC, UPC, NSPC, and a bunch of variations based on them, along with some states using code per municipality. You may as well pile into a clown car as to try to give advice based on code over the internet. That's where my facetious comment above came from. I see so many folks citing code here that may or may not be relevant to where someone lives. It gets old.