If you can see the pipe, you can insulate it. there are no setbacks or gaps you need to worry about. You can even go so far as wrapping the entire water heater with an insulation blanket and sealing your pipe insulation to the tank wrap.

https://www.amazon.com/Insulation-FIBERGLASS-Certified-Satisfaction-Guaranteed/dp/B0041871AY

Tank wraps are more for older, less efficient tanks, or if they are in unconditioned spaces.

Use tube isolation and put tonzon foil around it, never insulate cold water pipes as it increases the risk of legionella

No space needed.

https://imgur.com/a/h2xndkY

It's quite a mess there.

Each installation is contingent on the existing conditions. Some are level some are pitched. Think about if you had a 50’ run you. One side would be 5” lower than the other, and it would look like crap. In that case. I hang the gutter higher in the middle and pitch it slightly to each side toward the leaders.

Yes use green board on the ceiling. Yes you need vapor barrier between drywall and insulation. Don't put another vapor barrier between insulation and attic.

I'm certain it was unfinished when I bought it last year, I definitely used the same preserver then which I put in the pic above.

I'll give this a go, thank you

You can also replace the black shuffle bead, pull some out and photograph the profile and measure. You should be able to find something similar online to replace. It's much easier to just silicone the corners though.

It was unfinished when I bought it. I used the same preserver in the picture, this was a year ago though.

Yes that's fine, use low mod neutral cure.

Yes that's fine, use low mod neutral cure.

You're probably sanding with too fine of a grit. The wood needs to be "open" if that makes sense. Sand with maybe 220 max, and it should take the oil/ stain/ etc.

If anyone has old, dangerous, obsolete style side springs (usually accompanied with a half rotten old wood garage door), please upgrade today. Even with safety gadgets attached to the springs, if one breaks the force can rip those safety gadgets out also and instantly ruin your life if you are nearby. I was fortunate. The projectiles missed my head by about a foot. Felt the air and heard it, too fast to see it.

Are you certain that the butcher block was not oil finished?
I would use a simple cutting board oil.

It looks like there's a coat of polyurethane on the wood already? And that wood preserver is a penetrating oil? If it is poly on there, use poly to fix it.

The switch works, the wires are the correct ones, then the last owner might have done some weird bypass. Can you show us the wiring more clearly? Try to get a good picture of where they come from and where they go

Possibly. Was it sealed before you had to take care of the burn, and if so did you use that same sealant?

If possible get some conditioner (could even an oil like walnut oil etc since it's not for food prep) and try a small bit and see if it soaks in. With oils and conditioner you want very little so it doesn't leave a residue.

Nope, just using it as a desk. Do you think it will take to the conditioner you posted if it's not taking the sealant here?

Still looking for help. Post on r/RVLiving

Are you using it for a food surface like a cutting board or counter?

If so I'd recommend a food safe mineral oil.

Bob Villa has some good tips and recommendations. For my cutting board I use a conditioner (not sure what brand as the label has worn off) after washing and it works great.

https://www.bobvila.com/articles/best-cutting-board-oil/#:~:text=Food%2Dgrade%20mineral%20oil%20is%20the%20most%20common%20oil%20to,conditioner%2C%20beeswax%20and%20carnauba%20wax.

I have replaced mine 3 or 4 times over the last 20yrs. The plate holds the microwave while you hold it in place and screw in the top lag bolts. Your 75% is perhaps correct until the lag bolts are secured. Once the lag bolts are secured almost all the weight is on them. It’s almost as if the plate is there to help a single person install. How much you bust your back while getting it on the lip of the plate is irrelevant. A single screw for the plate into a stud is sufficient so long as it’s somewhere in the middle of the plate and not all the way to one end of it. Toggle bolts for the rest will suffice. Remember…measure twice drill once when drilling into the uppers for the lag bolts.

It's switch for the lamp since there are 3 lamps in the kitchen. There is nothing else, no other switches, no other things to turn on.

It's on the flat from joining two sheets or a repair, shouldn't be a problem. Especially since you're only cutting part of it.

Just make sure you hold it securely while you cut it so vibrations don't pop all the screws/nails in it.

The motor is shot and your opener system (the whole door, tracks, drive, etc.) is likely set up wrong or has worn to the point of complete disfunction.

A garage opener doesn't shear off the drive shaft and sprocket unless the opener isn't centered on the load or the wheels/tracks are binding up. Most garage door openers just stop working like your motor currently is when they wear out.

You should reassess the entire system and just replace the opener.